Italy, what can one say about Italy…? Well, it is probably the most amazing place on the planet! I have been to Italy a few times, but have only seen a small part of it. I would love to see so much more! On this trip, we flew to Venice and departed from Rome in September, 2015. In between we went to Padua and Florence. Rome and Florence are in separate blogs. Padua is further below. The itinerary was Venice two nights, Florence two nights and Rome four nights.
Where to Stay? – Where to Eat?
Venice
I’m stating the obvious, but this truly is a very unique city. Founded in the 5th century and spread over 118 small islands, Venice became a major maritime power in the 10th century. The city is an extraordinary architectural masterpiece in which even the smallest building contains works by some of the world’s greatest artists such as Giorgione, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and others.
The State of Venice is considered to have been the first real international financial center, which gradually emerged in the 9th century, to its peak in the 14th century. This made Venice a wealthy city throughout most of its history.
It is also known for its several important artistic movements, especially the Renaissance period. After the Napoleonic Wars and the Congress of Vienna, the Republic was annexed by the Austrian Empire, until it became part of the Kingdom of Italy in 1866. Venice has played an important role in the history of symphonic and operatic music, and it is the birthplace of Antonio Vivaldi. In 2016 Venice was ranked the most beautiful city in the world.
There is a lot to do in Venice. San Marco (St. Marks Square), Doge Palace, Bridge of Sighs, Rialto Bridge, Teatro La Fenice (the famous opera house), Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute, and so much more. It is best to just walk around and let yourself get lost. The best time to visit is September to November when there are fewer tourists and the weather is perfect. Carnival is in February and the annual film festival is the last week of August and first week of September. The Art Biennale (as the name indicates, every other year) has various events at different times. We were there mid September and it was still pretty busy, but if you stay off the main streets, like Strada Nuova, and away from the Grand Canal then it is pretty quiet.
Getting there from the Venice Marco Polo airport: we took the bus (€8 per person) to Piazzale Roma, the main vehicle drop off point, and then the ACTV vaporetto (water bus) along the Grand Canal (€7,50 per person or you can buy a day pass for €20) to the closest stop near the hotel. Then we walked the rest of the way, which was over several bridges and small cobblestoned roads. Our luggage wheels took a beating. The water taxi is just too expensive. The fare between Marco Polo Airport and a hotel in central Venice averages €110 or more, depending on location. A trip within the historic center can easily cost €40 to €70. A car taxi from the airport to Piazzale Roma is about €20.
Safety Tip: there are a lot of scammers, beggars and thieves at the bus and train stations. Keep your wallets in a safe place and don’t engage with anyone.
Where to Stay?
We stayed at Hotel Ca’ Vendramin di Santa Fosca in the Cannaregio district. There are so many nice places to stay in Venice, but it was very hard to find something reasonably priced. If you don’t want to spend a lot on a water taxi to get there, or drag your suitcases a distance, stay somewhere close to a vaporetto stop.
This hotel was fine and not too expensive (around $250 USD), but I would pick something else next time. It was the residence of nobleman Gabriele Vendramin (patron of famous painters, including Veneto, Giorgione and Tiziano) and has original frescoes, fine fabric and Murano glass chandeliers. Breakfast was good, too, but I didn’t like the decor of the room we had (too modern and too small, although they do have much nicer rooms). My hairdryer blew the power circuit, and it was a bit too far from the vaporetto.
If you are pressed for time and want to see as many of the big tourist sights as possible, it’s a good idea to concentrate your hotel search in the San Marco area. If it’s important to be near the railway station or the bus stops at Piazzale Roma, look for a hotel in south-western Cannaregio, north Dorsoduro or the eastern corners of Santa Croce or San Polo. For bars and nightlife Dorsoduro and the area around the Rialto are busiest. In northern Cannaregio and eastern Castello, you’ll find quieter residential areas for a more authentic Venetian stay.
We recommend staying in the Cannaregio area because it is not that far from the train station (depending on where you stay), there are a few vaporetto stations and it is not as touristy as some of the other areas. It also has great local shops with food and artifacts. When I was there in 1982 I stayed in the San Polo area with a resident Venetian writer, a family friend. She was very generous to let me stay there for free.
The six central districts are:
San Marco – the tourist hot-spot.
Cannaregio – mostly quiet residential area.
Castello – stretches from the tourist center to the public gardens in the east.
Dorsoduro – student area and the artsy part of Venice.
San Polo – residential with some of the top restaurants and the big fish market.
Santa Croce – the bus terminal is in this area, but it also has quiet spots
My recommendation for a hotel in Cannaregio is Ca’ Sagredo. It is close to the Ca’ D’Oro vaparetto station, has great views of the Grand Canal and has some really beautiful rooms all at a reasonable price (for Venice). This is a great location because you can go deeper into the residential area, or wander into the San Marco touristy area within a 15-20 minute walk. There is a grocery store on Strada Nuova which is a short walk. And San Polo is just across the Grand Canal where you can take a Traghetto (gondola ferry) for €2. There are several Traghetto lines that cross the Grand Canal, most operated by families. Hotel L’Orologio also gets good reviews and looks pretty nice.
Of course, if you want really high end, Gritti Palace, Hotel Danieli, San Clemente Palace Hotel & Resort, Hotel Cipriani, and a few others are at the very top.
A good way to see Venice is to just take the vaporetto to the end of the line to Lido or San Marco. The water bus goes slowly, allowing you to take video and photos. It’s a lot cheaper than a gondola! The city of Venice sets official rates for gondola rides, which started at €80 for 40 minutes the last time we checked. Additional 20-minute increments are €40. After 7 p.m., the base rate climbs to €100, with €50 for an additional 20 minutes. Up to six people can share a gondola. We didn’t go for a gondola ride, we just walked a lot.
San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) is very busy and the lines are long for tourist attractions. We went on a tour of the Doge Palace, but bought tickets in advance.
We took the Secret Tour, which covers the rooms and chambers of the Venetian administration. It also takes you through the jails in the basement which were often flooded, but the inmates still had to live there in several feet of water.
An interesting part of their judiciary system was that a citizen could make a complaint about another citizen by placing a grievance in the complaint box. However, if the complaint proved to be false, then the complainer would receive the sentence. So, if you accused someone of a serious crime, you may end up getting the death penalty yourself.
The most extraordinary of Venetian monuments is undoubtedly the Basilica di San Marco. It was built over several centuries, frequently transformed and enriched with treasures often from the Far East. Its architecture, a mixture of Byzantine, Roman and Venetian, is the work of artists and craftsmen from all over the world. We didn’t get a chance to go in because the line was too long. As always, it’s best to buy a ticket in advance.
There are many stores near San Marco square – popular designer stores and small artisan shops. If you want an amazing Venetian mask, take a look at some of the small shops that make hand made masks. They have some fantastic masks that are works of art. Don’t buy the cheap, Made in China masks – they are ugly, will not last, and do not help the local artists. The hand made creations are so stunning, you really have to see them.
Where to Eat?
I’ve heard people say that Venice does not have good food, but that is far from true. Yes, there are many tourist restaurants that are not good, but Venice is an epicenter of fine dining. It has the best fresh food, especially sea food, prepared to perfection. You just have to know where NOT to go. There are many family run restaurants that will make any foodie drool.
Tips for dining in Venice:
- Do not eat at a restaurant along the main strip where all the tourists hang out.
- If the waiter or host, is standing outside trying to bring customers in, don’t go. A good restaurant never has to coax people to come in.
- If the restaurant displays pictures of their food, keep walking.
- If the restaurant has a checkered table cloth it usually is not one of the better places.
- If it is half empty during peak hours, it’s empty for a reason.
- TripAdvisor is not the best for determining a good restaurant. In my experience, I found restaurants noted as good by the reviewers turned out to be mediocre or bad. If you are a foodie, trust the foodie blogs instead.
- In Italy restaurants often have two seatings for dinner: around 5-7 pm and after 9pm. Most restaurants are closed between lunch and dinner so if you want to eat in between, it is snacks and light dining at a Cantina.
- Make a reservation! Good restaurants fill up fast. You won’t get in without a reservation unless it’s the late night seating.
One of the best places for a panini and a glass of wine is Francesco’s La Cantina on Cannaregio 3689 on Strada Nuova. Platters of the freshest fish, cured meats, select cheeses, sumptuous salads and fine wines for a very reasonable price.
But don’t rush the owner, Francesco! It takes time to prepare a great sandwich or platter. We ate here several times. Jimmy and I both think this is the best panini ever. Simple top quality cured meats, fresh bread and nothing else. Top that off with a good glass of wine, and Wow! Under €10 for the above panini and glass of wine.
Ostaria da Rioba is located in a quiet area of the Cannaregio district. We liked this restaurant so much we went back twice. Great food, very nice staff.
Get a table on the canal for a really great dining experience. They offer dishes of fish and meat using only fresh seasonal ingredients; the fish is chosen based on the availability at the fish market every morning. Phone: 00 39 348 769 6480
Other recommended restaurants:
Osteria Alle Testiere – A well known seafood restaurant with fresh fish from the daily market. €50 plus per person range. Phone: 00 39 041 522 7220
La Zucca located in the Santa Croce district, serves many innovative Venetian dishes at affordable prices. Phone: 00 39 041 52 41 570
Antiche Carampane located in San Polo district, near Rialto Bridge, is difficult to find but worth the search. Fantastic fresh seafood and other dishes in a family run restaurant. €60 range per person. Tables outside and inside.
Corte Sconta, located in the residential lanes of eastern Castello, has great appetizers and mains. They have tables in a vine covered courtyard. Around €60 per person. Phone: 00 39 041 522 7024
Osteria di Santa Marina is described as creative Venetian cuisine with a lot of seafood. Quality food and good service. Tables inside and out. Around €70 per person. Phone: 00 39 041 528 5239
Quadri is very high end and very expensive. Located in San Marco Square it is one of the most famous restaurants in Venice. Tasting menus €185 to €225: otherwise around €180. They have a cheaper bistro in the basement called ABC Quadrie for about €60 pp. Phone: 00 39 041 522 2105
Al Gato Nero on the island of Burano is inexpensive and very good. Around €60. Phone: 00 39 041 730 120
The famous Harry’s Bar in Venice, opened by Giuseppe Cipriani in 1931 is located right on the waterfront of San Marco area. They invented both the Bellini and carpaccio. The drink is a mixture of white peach juice and sparkling prosecco, named after the 15th-century Venetian painter Giovanni Bellini. Carpaccio is a plate of marinated trimmed sirloin sliced wafer thin and dressed with a Jackson Pollock spray of mayonnaise mixed with lemon juice. It was named after an Italian painter, Vittore Carpaccio. Hotel Cipriani is an ultra luxurious hotel located on La Guidecca, an island a few minutes from San Marco by private boat.
We both definitely want to go back to Venice and spend more time. There is no other city quite like this. We both loved roaming the residential streets and the quieter areas of the city.
Padua
Padua is a 40 minute train ride from Venice. They have trains going in that direction about every 15 minutes. Our main reason for going was to see the Scrovegni Chapel. The Chapel is known for the frescoes by Giotto in 1303-1305. It is one of the most important masterpieces in Western Art. He is generally considered the first in a line of great artists who contributed to the Renaissance. Giotto is known as making a decisive break with the prevalent Byzantine style and as initiating “the great art of painting as we know it today, introducing the technique of drawing accurately from life, which had been neglected for more than two hundred years.” He inspired Michelangelo and many others.
To ensure pollutants do not enter the Chapel and damage the frescoes, visitors must go into a room for about 20 minutes where they watch a video. On-line reservations must be made at least 24 hours in advance. It is not possible to reserve for the same day. They only let in about 25 people per viewing. If you are into art, Padua’s Scrovegni Chapel should be a definite destination. Note: You must to check your bags, including large purses, and there are no exceptions. They do go into a safe locker, so it should not be a problem.
Padua is also known for the the vast 13th-century Basilica of St. Anthony and one of the world’s oldest universities, the University of Padua, established in 1222.
Venice is truly unique. There are not many cities that are vastly different from others. This and New Orleans come to mind. I would love to visit both again and explore deeper.
For more photos please go to Wonderland Photography.
