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Nashville Tennessee

Alice Lipka
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Nashville Tennessee

This blog focuses on the Nashville portion of our Southern US road trip. Great music, food and people can be found in Nashville!

Please see the related blog that has live music video clips: Southern Blues Road Trip

Nashville, Music City, is the capital of Tennessee, the capital of Country music, and home to Vanderbilt University. Before it became “Music City,” Nashville was known as the Athens of the South. In 1897 for Tennessee’s Centennial Exposition, the city built a full-scale replica of Athens’ most famous landmark, the Parthenon.

The drive from Memphis to Nashville is about three hours through mountainous terrain. We only spent one night in Nashville primarily to see live music on Broadway.

The live music area, The District, is on Broadway street and some of the top clubs are: Roberts Western World, The Stage, Honkey Tonk Central, Legends Corner, Tootsies Orchid Lounge, and Bourbon Street Blues & Boogie Bar.  The bars are free, just tip the band.

One of this music city’s longest-running bands, and a Broadway St. legend, Don Kelley has led the Don Kelley Band since 1981. Their version of Ghost Rider is not to be missed.

Music Row is an area southwest of Downtown Nashville that is home to hundreds of businesses related to the Country music industry, most of which are housed in the area’s beautiful old homes. Centered on 16th and 17th Avenues South along with several side streets, Music Row is widely considered the heart of Nashville’s entertainment industry. This quiet collection of streets is a “must see” for country music fans.

Attractions:

  • Broadway Music District
  • Ryman Theatre (Grand Ole Opry)
  • Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum
  • Johnny Cash Museum
  • Nashville Parthenon
  • Tennessee State Capitol
  • Belle Meade Plantation
  • Belmont Mansion
  • The Hermitage
  • Cheekwood Botanical Gardens and Museum of Art
  • Fort Nashborough

The Ryman Theatre, aka Grand Ole’ Opry, has a great display of costumes, guitars and memorabilia, and they still have shows. This is located downtown, but there is a new Grand Ole Opry that is in the suburbs, so don’t confuse the two. The Ryman has a tour that starts with holograms telling you about the history of the theatre and the Grand Ole’ Opry. It was very impressive!  Jimmy had goosebumps again. And you can get your photo taken on stage!

 

Jimmy went to the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum while I packed for our next stop – Atlanta. The museum is a must see for music fans. It’s not just for country fans. We definitely have to go back to Nashville and stay longer.

Where to Stay?

We stayed at the Hyatt Place in downtown Nashville. It’s a fine generic hotel with breakfast included and free wifi, but the breakfast was not great. On the plus side, it did have a nice little sitting area in the room and was less expensive than some of the other large hotels in the area. Next time, a B&B or boutique hotel would be my choice.

  • The Hermitage, a 5 star lodging, is Nashville’s most luxurious and historic hotel.
  • Rated as #2 in Nashville, the 4.5 star, Hutton Hotel is another good option. This would be my choice for the next visit.
  • The Omni Hotel
  • Union Station Hotel – boutique hotel situated inside a 19th century train station.
  • Of course renting a cabin just outside of downtown, or an apartment for a longer stay is an option.

Where to Eat?

The only restaurant we ate at was The Southern. We were passing by and it looked like a quality restaurant so we decided to try it. I did a quick google on the reviews and it had good reviews. Steak, seafood, burgers… casual but high end. It did not disappoint. Jimmy had this mega burger – how do you put your mouth around that!

Husk Restaurant

Other recommendations:

Enjoy your visit to Nashville!

For more photos go to Wonderland Photography.

Atlanta & Savannah Georgia

Alice Lipka
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Atlanta & Savannah Georgia

Georgia, home of the perfect peach, was another state I have always wanted to visit. Atlanta and Savannah are the two cities we went to.

This was part of a Southern US road trip that included several other states. For more about the music scene and band videos, go to Southern Blues Road Trip.

From Nashville, we headed out for Atlanta, Georgia (a four hour drive), but with a stop over in Chattanooga for lunch. The only photo I took in Chattanooga was that of the Walnut Street Bridge. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to see the Chattanooga Choo Choo. The Atlanta area has a lot of traffic, so it took about half an hour longer. Be prepared for gridlock and bad drivers.

Atlanta, Georgia

Atlanta is the capital of Georgia. It played an important part in both the Civil War and the 1960s Civil Rights Movement. In 1837, Atlanta was founded at the intersection of two railroad lines, and the city rose from the ashes of the American Civil War to become a national center of commerce.

Swan House

During the Civil War, the multiple railroads in Atlanta made the city a hub for the distribution of military supplies. In 1864, the region surrounding Atlanta was the location of several major army battles, culminating with the Battle of Atlanta and a four-month-long siege of the city by the Union Army under the command of General William Tecumseh Sherman.

General William Tecumseh Sherman

Confederate General John Bell Hood made the decision to retreat from Atlanta, and he ordered the destruction of all public buildings and possible assets that could be of use to the Union Army. The next day, Mayor James Calhoun surrendered Atlanta to the Union Army, and Sherman ordered the city’s civilian population to evacuate. On November 11, 1864, Sherman prepared for the Union Army’s March to the Sea (to Savannah) and ordered Atlanta to be burned to the ground, sparing only the city’s churches and hospitals.

Atlanta and surrounding area is the setting for the classic film about the Civil War “Gone with the Wind” – Scarlett O’hara and Rhett Butler, two of the most memorable movie characters of all time, battle it out with each other, as Atlanta burns.

The 2016 estimated population is just under 500,000 with a population of 5.7 million in the greater Atlanta area. We don’t have many observations of the city itself, because it was just a stopover enroute to Savannah. We were doing our own “march to the sea”. We were too tired to visit the sights of Atlanta, and it was too late in the day so the only thing we did was walk around the mid town neighbourhood – which apparently is the best place to be. The midtown area is a vibrant, upscale neighbourhood with quality cafes and restaurants, beautiful architecture, artisan shops, and plenty of green space. 

Where to Stay?

We stayed at this amazing B&B called Stonehurst Place, located in mid town Atlanta. It is a luxury B&B with a fantastic breakfast (peach cobbler made with the amazing Georgia peaches) and wine with snacks in the evening. The proprietors are attentive and very proud of this historic home. They try to ensure you walk away with a first-rate experience. It is luxurious and relaxing. We definitely recommend it.

Other good hotel options:

Attractions:

Where to Eat?

We found an excellent restaurant in mid town called The Lawrence. Zagat-rated contemporary Southern fare, inventive cocktails and a signature house bourbon. The meal and wine were superb! Farm fresh and inventive. Everything there is good.

Other options:

  • Cake & Ale – according to NY Times, “where Atlanta chefs will likely tell you to go”
  • Busy Bee Cafe – making food since 1947
  • Staplehouse – New York style
  • Miller Union – California style
  • Atlas – upscale American restaurant with Picasso and Matisse paintings on the walls

Savannah, Georgia

After a good night’s sleep, we headed out to our final destination Savannah, Georgia. This was another four hour drive. It was the same route that General Sherman, of the Union Army, took in the march toward the sea after he burned down Atlanta.

Savannah is a beautiful coastal town on the Savannah River (South Carolina is on the other side). It is the oldest city in Georgia established in 1733, and was a strategic port city during the Revolutionary and Civil Wars. It is a major tourist attraction now.

Savannah is known for its many manicured parks and antebellum architecture. A good way to see Savannah and the 24 little parks in the historic district, is on a trolley tour bus. Forsyth Park is the most popular park with the famous fountain and the great oak trees with Spanish moss. At the center of the historic district is the landmark, gothic-revival Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist.

My favorite was Monterrey Square because it has a monument to Polish Nobleman, Kazimierz Pulaski, who fought in the American Revolution.

The riverfront also has some pretty good street musicians and is very lively, but it is also a bit shabby. It is much nicer further inland, especially near the town parks.

The river is a major shipping lane, as we witnessed when sitting on the riverfront drinking a beer (yes you can drink on the streets here). There were some extremely large cargo ships that sailed by.

This guy was just great. He was singing his heart out all afternoon. But I didn’t write down his name, which is too bad. He is very talented.

Savannah has annual music festivals and several live music venues in the historic district – Rock, Jazz, Blues, Country and more. One of Savannah’s most respected live music venues is The Jinx at 127 W Congress St. Congress Street Social Club and the Warehouse Bar and Grill also have local and regional bands every week and draw steady crowds.

Where to Stay?

We stayed at the River Street Inn right on the riverfront, but it is very tricky to find how to drive into the parking area. GPS is not accurate for this one. Breakfast is not included, but they offer free wine in the evening, and there is a French coffee shop downstairs.

The hotel is nice, but I don’t think I would stay there again. The price was good and the location is nice if you want to spend time on the waterfront, but I found that this area does not have good restaurants and is a bit gritty (and not in a good way). Next time, I would stay further inland at a B&B.

Other Hotel options: 

Where to Eat?

When it comes to food, Savannah does have good restaurants, but it doesn’t seem that the riverfront is the best place to find one. We didn’t try them all, but from what I could tell, it is not an area I would recommend. Probably the worst meal I have ever had was at Huey’s on the River. The crab cake was really greasy and not that cheap at $29 USD. I sent my meal back because it was inedible and the manager even hesitated in refunding it. Jimmy’s meal was horrible, too, but he ate it because he was very hungry – he felt ill afterward. All the waiters had dirty aprons on. Really? I get that some restaurants don’t care because tourists are not repeat customers, but this was a bit much.

We had a great meal at Circa 1875, a Parisian bistro. It wasn’t cheap, but the great service and superb food made the cost somewhat bearable. I had the largest profiterole that I have ever seen: house made ice cream with top notch dark chocolate. How can you say no to that?

We also ate at The Goose Feather Cafe for lunch, which has good basic food, but the down side is they make you wait in line until you order at the counter. You cannot grab a seat and then order. I suppose having a line outside is an attraction, but for that reason alone I would never go back.

Another great restaurant is The Public Kitchen. Quality sourced products, nice atmosphere and great prices.

We didn’t go out to a club or live music venue, instead we just had drinks on the riverfront. Since this was the end of our extremely fast-paced two weeks, we were ready for a vacation. Next day we drove four hours back to Atlanta then flew home. It was a very memorable two weeks! And a ton of material to cover!

For more photos go to Wonderland Photography.

 

New Orleans Louisiana

Alice Lipka
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New Orleans Louisiana

If you want great music and art, excellent food and unbelievable scenery, New Orleans is it. It has a vibe, unlike any other city in the US.

For more about the music scene in NOLA and band videos, go to Southern Blues Road Trip.

New Orleans, aka The Big Easy or NOLA, is a major US port city with a population of about 350,000. The city was established by French colonists and influenced by their European culture. It is well known for its distinct French and Spanish Creole architecture, as well as its cross-cultural and multilingual heritage.

New Orleans is famous for its cuisine, music (particularly as the birthplace of jazz), and its annual celebrations and festivals, most notably Mardi Gras, which dates back to French colonial times. The city is often referred to as the “most unique” in the United States and I would agree with that. The French Quarter and Garden Districts were the most appealing for us (not that we ventured elsewhere, but these are known as the two key attractive areas for tourists).

I have never seen a city like this. The atmosphere is exceptional. People walk around with drinks in their hand, enjoying the music and hot, hot, humid weather. Everyone is friendly. Neither Jimmy nor I are interested in going during Mardi Gras, but at any other time there is also plenty to do and see. November to May is peak season, so expect escalated costs.

And there are street musicians everywhere. To play here you have to be good even on the street.

Tips:

  • It is very hot and humid in the summer and fall, so bring very light cotton or silk clothing – jeans are too hot.
  • Parking in the French Quarter is difficult, so park elsewhere. The most interesting attractions are in the French Quarter so you may want to consider staying here.
  • Another reason to stay close to where you will spend most of your time is that because of the humidity, you will want to go inside for a rest and a change of clothes a few times a day.

Did I mention it is hot and humid? But you can always cool off with a cold beer on the steps of the Supreme Court! Yes, you can drink on the streets as long as it is not in a glass bottle. The people behind me were on an alcohol tour – literally! The guide said: “Now you can pull out your Sangria so we can drink on the steps of the Supreme Court.” She then described the ingredients and history of the drink. I assume bourbon was also part of the tour.

Attractions:

  • French Quarter Royal Street for art galleries, unique boutiques and cafes
  • Louis Armstrong Park
  • Cemetery Number 1
  • Garden District
  • Steamboat cruise
  • Frenchmen St. for authentic blues
  • Preservation Hall for authentic jazz
  • House of Blues and other live music venues in the French Quarter
  • Fine dining

Royal Street is the main area for art galleries, nice cafes and unique stores, while Bourbon Street is a frat house party with cheap food and drink plus tacky souvenir stores. Two different worlds and only a block apart.

Frank Relle Photography

The Frank Relle Photography gallery really blew us both away. What magical images! The Bayou at dusk with someone camping out! We walked past the gallery as people were spilling out onto the street with drinks in their hand, so we decided to take a look. They immediately invited us in and offered us drinks and snacks. We met the photographer, Frank, and chatted with the patrons. Great people, so open and friendly. I love this type of photography. When you see the actual prints, they are even more stunning.

We walked around the French Quarter quite a bit. It was exciting to just walk the streets, feel the vibe and run into characters like this one. I had to pay for the pose, but I only had a dollar bill so she wasn’t happy with that and only allowed one shutter click.

We walked around the residential district in the French Quarter and headed to the northern perimeter up to Louis Armstrong Park. It is walking distance – about half an hour. The colorful houses are very small and all boarded up to keep the humidity out. We didn’t see many people in this area, not sure if they were on vacation, or at work, but the streets were very quiet.

Louis Armstrong Park, on the edge of the French Quarter, is dedicated to Jazz and Blues. Louis Armstrong (1901 – 1971), was an American trumpeter, composer, singer (and occasional actor) who was one of the most influential figures in jazz. If you like jazz and good music, you know who he is.

Next to the park is St. Louis Cemetery No 1. The city’s oldest cemetery (1789) is a maze of tombs and crumbling bricks and it’s widely believed that voodoo queen Marie Laveau’s remains are there. I regret we didn’t go in because it something that I always wanted to see and photograph, but the set tour times didn’t work for us. Instead we took the bus to Canal and Charles Streets to catch the St. Charles streetcar for a tour of the Garden District. Buses and streetcars are $1.25, or you can buy a day pass for $3.00. The St. Charles streetcar is the oldest, continuously operating streetcar in the world.

You can take it to the end for the full tour or get off around Tulane University and walk around the beautiful neighbourhood and Audubon Park. The Garden District was originally developed between 1832 and 1900 and is one of the best-preserved collections of historic mansions in the Southern US. The homes are unique with various architectural styles: including Greek Revival, Colonial and Victorian. Some can be a bit creepy, but have a commanding presence. They remind me of a setting in an Agatha Christie novel, or a vampire movie. Speaking of which… Anne Rice had a home here.

This video is taken in the French Quarter, the Garden District and on the main city street, Canal St. The first piece of music is by the Irvin Mayfield Band, and the subsequent piece is by a band that was playing in the French Quarter – unfortunately I didn’t catch their name.

If you don’t feel like walking around you can always take a Mississippi river boat cruise. The Natchez is a well-known steamboat, and apparently the only steamboat in New Orleans. It is at the foot of the French Quarter. If you walk along Decatur Street in either direction along the Mississippi River, you will find several nice cafes.

Irvin Mayfield’s Jazz Playhouses is a well-established jazz venue. Mayfield, a Grammy and Billboard Award-winning artist with 25 albums to his credit, is accredited with bringing Jazz back to the French Quarter.

You can find blues at The House of Blues and other venues in the French Quarter, but for less mainstream blues go to Frenchman Street just outside of the French Quarter. For great Jazz, Preservation Hall (live music since 1961) is a well-known venue for great jazz. They do not serve alcohol, but you can bring your own. Go early because they have line ups and limited seating. With the heat and humidity, it can get strenuous standing for the length of a show.

Where to Stay?

We stayed at the Omni Royal on St. Louis St. It’s a nice hotel, reasonably priced (about $150 USD per night) and good service. Free wi-fi, but no breakfast. I found the prices very good in September, but they do go up in peak season which is February to May. If you plan on going to restaurants and bars in the French Quarter, it is a good idea to stay nearby.

Other Options:

Where to Eat?

All good restaurants are very busy and require reservations. Book ahead if you can.

Cafe Amelie opened in 2005 and is well known for fine dining. It is also known for having one of the most beautiful courtyards in the French Quarter, where patrons can dine. It is located in the historic 150-year-old Princess of Monaco Courtyard and Carriage House on Royal Street. The food was fantastic! Great quality, great service and a really nice ambience. For me, the seating is almost as important as the food, and the table we had in the garden was perfect.

Photo by Sara Essex Bradley

Sylvain, opened in 2010, is located in a two-hundred-year-old carriage house at 625 Chartres Street. The food, WOW! It is a work of art. I had the best scallops ever at this restaurant. This is a dish that is seemingly easy to prepare, but surprisingly not every chef nails it with scallops. The scallops here, were grilled and seasoned to perfection and the side was a perfect fit for the scallops. This dish truly stood out for me, like the Buffalo Mozzarella in Austin. Cafe Amelie and Sylvain were the best two restaurants we tried in New Orleans. They are on a different level than the others.

Mr. B’s Bistro is considered the original New Orleans gourmet bistro. It is famous for its Creole cuisine with a focus on fresh regional products, and is located in the heart of the French Quarter at the landmark intersection of Royal and Iberville. The service is formal with professional waiters in uniform. It is extremely busy. The food was very good, but not quite on the same level as the above two restaurants. This venue attracts a lot of tourists. I do recall having the largest soft-shell crab I have ever seen (as big as a full-sized dinner plate)! And very large profiteroles!  Everything was tasty and the service was great.

Chef Paul Prudhomme’s K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen is a legendary local restaurant serving upscale Cajun and Creole dishes. When it first opened in 1979, they had long lines daily – people wanted to experience quality food, which was rare everywhere in the 1970’s. It is a casual restaurant, and not very expensive at lunch. For lunch I had a shrimp Po Boy (first time ever!) and Jimmy had something I don’t recall. We both enjoyed our meals and think it’s a good place for a casual lunch. We did not try the dinner menu which is much more expensive and leans more toward fine dining.

The shrimp or oyster Po Boy sandwich is very popular in New Orleans and can be found everywhere. Basically, it’s a sandwich with fried breaded shrimp or oysters. It is very tasty!

For breakfast we went to Cafe Beignet, not far from the hotel. Good coffee and you can get eggs, sandwiches, croissants, sweets or beignets. This was the first time either of us had ever heard of a beignet. This is how the cafe’s website describes them: “These golden squares, usually dusted with powdered confectioner’s sugar, can best be described as a cross between a French pastry and an American doughnut. In New Orleans, beignets are enjoyed at a breakfast, for dessert, or any time for a special treat.”

As we were leaving the city, we drove past the Superdome (now known as the Mercedes-Benz Superdome). I could not get the images out of my mind of the thousands of people stranded there, in the heat and extreme humidity during Hurricane Katrina. I can’t imagine the torment the people of New Orleans experienced at that time.

M Sani Art Gallery in French Quarter on Royal street

Lost in thought, I took the wrong turn at the junction and ended up going East on the I-10 instead of West. That took us past a section of the city that was flooded and we could still see the after-effects such as vacant overgrown lots and abandoned boarded-up buildings. That disaster was unimaginable, but people are rebuilding and New Orleans is getting back on its feet. Tourism dollars will help.

So go visit New Orleans! It is probably the most unique city in the USA. I hope to go back a few more times.

For more photos go to Wonderland Photography.

Austin Texas

Alice Lipka
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Austin Texas

This blog focuses on Austin. It was part of our Southern US road trip to experience Southern hospitality, amazing landscapes, great food and authentic Blues. It was fantastic! For more about the music scene and band videos, go to Southern Blues Road Trip.

Our Southern US trip started in Austin, state capital of Texas, and live music capital of the world. Austin has more than 250 live music venues. Major music events include the South by Southwest Music, Film and Interactive conferences in March and the Austin City Limits Music Festival in October. It is the 11th-most populous city in the U.S. and the fastest growing large city in the United States.

Where to Stay?

We spent two nights at a great B&B, The Fairview. They have luxury rooms in the main house and guest houses out back. Breakfast is quality organic food (yogurt, fruit, homemade granola), home baked goods and excellent coffee brewed by the cup. Free wi-fi. It is a historic home, beautifully furnished and very clean.

It is in a nice residential area that is full of flowers, scented trees, succulents and lots of greenery. I don’t think I have seen such lush flora and certainly didn’t expect so much in hot Texas.

Other options for accommodations:

Attractions

Spray mist keeping people cool
Congress Bridge has millions of bats underneath. They fly at dusk. It’s the biggest bat show in the world.

The B&B is a four-block walk to South Congress where the good restaurants are (and a few live music venues), but to get to 6th Street, where most of the music venues are, it is a long trek (half an hour in the stifling heat across the bridge to North Congress). We didn’t have a car for this part of the trip, thinking we could get a taxi or a bus, but we couldn’t find either. We walked across this bridge (it took a 15-minute walk to get there) all the way to the State Capitol Congress Building, which you can see at the at the very end of the street. And then there was the walk back!  The plan was to take a taxi, but we were there on a weekend when over 100,000 college football fans descended on the city, using up the limited taxi supply. The city does not have Uber or Lyft (at least not in 2016). Blisters exploded on our feet and crippled us for the rest of the trip!

 We did a quick tour of the Texas State Capitol Building, it didn’t take long to get in, even with the security check. It is a beautiful historic building constructed in 1888, and recognized as one of the most distinguished state capitol buildings.

They have galleries and various exhibits and you can climb to the top of that dome. Check out their web site for more information. It is worth a visit.

We were thirsty after that so we went to the 5 star Driskill, Austin’s top hotel. Built in 1886 as the showplace of cattle baron Jesse Driskill, The Driskill Hotel remains a legendary landmark in Texas.

It is gorgeous! It would have been nice to stay there, but at the time the rooms were over $650 USD per night, which was above our budget. The staff is super friendly. Great place for drinks.

We were hoping we could get a cab back from Driskill (what 5-star hotel doesn’t have a line of taxi’s waiting right?) but no such luck. EVERYONE was waiting for a taxi. Every single car was going to the football stadium for the big game – Texas Longhorns vs. Notre Dame.

I wanted to check out the flagship Whole Foods store in Austin, but we needed to save our energy for the long, long walk back in the heat. Yes Wholefoods was founded in Austin Texas in 1980 – for those rare folk that have never heard of Whole Foods, it is the best chain of organic groceries stores ever! You can also eat there – they have a buffet and other great organic foods in most, if not all, locations. You can’t beat a quality meal for $8-15. Toronto has only one, but it’s the only place we shop. I should buy stock!

Back on the South Congress side of the bridge we ran into an Insta Poet. Pick a topic and he writes you a poem on an old typewriter! We didn’t get one. But I did buy a great western shirt at a store on South Congress. The store had the door wide open, but with a wall of cold air flowing down that blocked the heat from coming in. So you walk through the wall of cold air and into AC and you are nice and chilled. Then they offered us whiskey! Every store offered us either a small glass of beer or whiskey. So nice. Of course, we then had to keep walking into stores for a refreshing chill break.

Later we went to the Continental Club on South Congress, “Austin’s premier live club since 1955”, to see Cash’d Out – a Johnny Cash tribute band. It was very enjoyable to have a cold beer with a lively crowd that was really into the music.

Tip: if you like good beer, order an IPA or APA – most places have at least one from a micro brewery, and they are full of flavor. Or stick to anything from a micro brewery, the big-name brands are very watery – but I think most people know that about US beer.

Other attractions:

  • Zilker Metropolitan Park and Botanical Garden
  • Bullock Texas State History Museum
  • Lyndon Baines Johnson Library and Museum
  • Lady Bird Lake
  • Umlauf Sculpture Garden and Museum
  • Texas Memorial Museum
  • Bats of Congress Avenue Bridge – millions of bats fly at dusk
  • South Congress Street (SoCo)
  • Austin City Limits

Where to Eat?

We went to Italian Vespaio – 5 star fine dining – and we were blown away. This was the best buffalo mozzarella either of us have ever tasted! It was better than in Italy! Fresh heirloom tomatoes, perfectly ripened and perfectly seasoned with fresh basil, sea salt and a splash of high end balsamic vinegar; together with house-made, super creamy, super tasty buffalo mozzarella and a slice of amazing sour dough bread – my mouth is watering as I’m writing. This was one of those dishes that will be remembered forever (like the panini we had in Venice).

The next day we ate at the back patio of the South Congress cafe, another top rated restaurant, and just walked around the South Congress area. The food was outstanding! We visited more stores and just hung out. We loved Austin! The people are very friendly, the fine dining is superb (I’m not into Tex Mex, but they have the best of that too) and it is the place to be for great music.

Other Recommendations:

Enjoy your stay in Austin!

For more photos of the South go to Wonderland Photography.

Memphis Tennessee

Alice Lipka
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Memphis Tennessee

Visit Memphis for Southern hospitality, great food and authentic Blues. We were both very impressed with Memphis.

Patio at Madison Hotel overlooking the Mississippi River

Memphis is about 1.5 hours north of Clarksdale, Mississippi, and three hours west of Nashville. It has a small-town feel, but is full of fascinating attractions, great music and some superb restaurants. It has a population of about 650,000. Memphis had a thriving post war economy with the world’s largest markets for cotton and lumber, and was a key port on the Mississippi River and a railroad hub. During the 1960s, the city was at the center of the Civil Rights Movement.

Beale Street with BB King’s bar on the corner

Memphis is well known for its cultural contributions to the identity of the American South. Many renowned musicians grew up in and around Memphis and, during the ‘20s and ‘30s moved north to Chicago and other areas from the Mississippi Delta, carrying their music with them to influence other cities and listeners over the radio. For more about the music scene and band videos, go to Southern Blues Road Trip

This city is one of my favorites. There is so much to see and I love the vibe!

Attractions:

  • Graceland
  • Sun Studio
  • Arcade Restaurant
  • South Main St.
  • Memphis Train Station
  • National Civil Rights Museum
  • Gibson Guitar Factory
  • Beale Street for live music
  • Lansky’s “Clothier to the King”
  • Lauderdale Courts, where Elvis once lived
  • Peabody Hotel duck parade
  • West Memphis (in Arkansas)
  • Fine dining

Graceland

No trip to Memphis is complete without a visit to Graceland, home of Elvis Presley. The lines are long to get over the mansion. You start at the Graceland tourist center where you buy a ticket and a place in line for the shuttle bus that takes you over to the house.

Built in 1939, the original owner of the land named the property after his daughter Grace. Elvis purchased Graceland in 1957 for $102,500 as a farmland retreat outside of town. It is now owned by his daughter, Lisa Marie Presley. Graceland is the second most-visited house in America with over 650,000 visitors a year; second only to the White House.

Elvis grew up very poor. We drove through a neighbourhood where he lived when they first moved to Memphis from Tupelo. It was a public housing development built in 1938 under President Franklin Roosevelt’s WPA. Lauderdale Courts was one of the first U.S. public housing projects.

Graceland isn’t ultra luxurious by today’s standards, but it was pretty swanky for the day. Apparently, he did this mostly for his mother. He was very attached to her and wanted both parents to have a nice home. I love the fabulous 70’s design! Very much worth seeing. Plan on spending at least half a day.

The yellow TV room has three TVs so Elvis could watch all three network news broadcasts (ABC, CBS, NBC) at the same time. Apparently, he did this because that’s what the President did. Just imagine Elvis and the “Memphis Mafia” hanging out here.

The modern kitchen of the day. The stove looks high end. Big fridge!

The basement lounge with an exotic theme. Love the green carpet and leopard chair!

His airplane dining table. He had a full bedroom on the plane with a regular size bed and gold-plated bathroom sink.

The famous pink Cadillac he bought for his beloved mother.

His final resting place, along with his family, is in the garden at the back of the home.

Sun Studio

One of the must-see destinations for music fans. Sun Studio, arguably where rock n’ roll started.

Beale Street

Famous and historic Beale Street in Memphis. This is where BB King got his start – home of the blues. A lot of bars with a lot of great music. One of the best bar hop streets on the planet. Apparently, it can be dangerous, but there’s a visible police presence and it’s very crowded, so it should be relatively safe. This is one of the US cities where you can drink on the street, and carry your drinks from bar to bar if they are in a plastic cup.

Other Attractions

The National Civil Rights Museum is in Memphis. The Lorraine Motel, where Dr. Martin Luther King was assassinated, is part of the museum. The motel remains frozen in time, in the 1960’s style of the day. The museum re-opened in 2014 after renovations that increased the number of multi-media and interactive exhibits, including numerous short movies to enhance features.

South Main St. has artisan shops and it’s a unique part of the city. You can take a streetcar from near Beale Street to the Memphis Train station then walk back toward Beale. You will pass the Arcade, Earnestine & Hazels, The Civil Rights Museum and it’s a nice walk.

The Earnestine & Hazel’s building originated in the late 1800s, when it was built as a church. Then it was a pharmacy and sundry store, and then an old jazz café / brothel before it became a bar. Many blues and jazz musicians used to hang out here. Apparently Ray Charles used to stay upstairs. It is still a juke joint, but now it is famous for its Soul Burger and good music.

The Arcade Restaurant is the oldest cafe in Memphis (built in 1919) and where Elvis used to hang out. It is on the National Registrar of Historic Places and featured in the Jim Jarmusch movie “Mystery Train”. Filmed in 1988, Mystery Train, started a revival of film making in Memphis.

This area on South Main St. is in the film, as well as the Memphis Train Station. After falling into disrepair in the 1960’s, the Memphis Central Station gained a reputation as one of the worst stations on the Amtrak system. The property was eventually acquired by Memphis Area Transit Authority, and a massive renovation project was undertaken. The station was desolate when we went in, but it is operational and very clean. Great location for photos!

Lansky Brothers, “Clothier to the King” (that’s Elvis Presley, for those that may not know) is close to Beale Street and worth dropping by. They have some great shirts. Known for bright colors and silky fabrics, it became the place to shop for many musicians: Elvis, BB King, Isaac Hayes, Carl Perkins, Jerry Lee Lewis, Johnny Cash and others. In the film “Mystery Train”, Screaming Jay Hawkins (who plays the hotel night manager) says to the bell boy, who complains about his uniform: “Well, you should do like I do. Shit, go over and buy your own damn clothes over at Lansky’s… I mean, you know it’s like they say: the clothes make the man.” That line stood out for me when I saw the film and I wondered, “What is Lansky’s?” Now I know. And we bought a few shirts there, too.

We also visited the Gibson Guitar Factory and Showroom, however we didn’t have time for the tour (they only have a few tours daily and the next one was too late). Jimmy and I both have Gibsons so it would have been nice to see how they are made (I have a guitar that was made at this factory). We will have to go back.

Where to Stay?

We stayed at The Madison, one of the top hotels in Memphis. The Peabody Hotel is also a noteworthy luxury hotel known not only for quality, but for the daily live duck parade from their rooftop home down the elevator, and into the fountain in the lobby (escorted by the Duck Master).

 

The Madison costs less than the Peabody, and both are walking distance to everything. The Madison has a great roof top lounge overlooking the Mississippi River, which was the deciding factor for our stay there. You can see Arkansas on the other side of the river.

The next day we drove across the bridge to Arkansas just to get another state under our belt! West Memphis is on the other side of the Bridge. We noticed that there were many musicians from Arkansas playing at the Blues clubs.

Where to Eat?

The first restaurant we tried was McEwens Memphis. I picked this restaurant because of good reviews and, frankly, because I used to work for a chef named Mark McEwen in Toronto. He is a top chef in North America, with several Toronto restaurants, but he has no involvement in this Memphis restaurant. It didn’t matter. We went for lunch and ran into the business crowd – everyone was drinking iced tea. Apparently, it’s a Southern thing… The food is top quality so you can’t go wrong with what ever you order. Dinner has a robust fine dining menu.

The Majestic Grille is another well known restaurant in Memphis. Built in 1913 as a movie house, the interior is large and quite stunning. They have a movie screen that projects silent and classic films. The owner, Chef Patrick Reilly, is from Dublin and has an impressive bio. The restaurant and Chef have won several “best of” awards, however their web site does not address where they source the food from. In a fine restaurant they should not serve factory farmed anything. Everything should be ethically sourced. In my experience, if it is not explicitly stated (since that is a big feature) it usually isn’t so. I had the grilled mahi mahi and Jimmy had the roasted chicken. Both meals were tasty, but were not up to fine dining standards.

The restaurant we were most impressed with on the entire trip was Flight. They have a very unique “flight” option (a trio of smaller portions) for everything from wines, to appetizers, to mains, and deserts. What a great idea! They offer suggested pairings, but you can mix and match and you can order two small dishes instead of three, or just a main.

The service was good, and the food quality and prep was outstanding. We went all out and had appetizer flights with wine flights, mains, and a trio of deserts with recommended desert wines. It was heaven! I didn’t expect such quality dining in Memphis.

We were both very impressed with Memphis. I like the vibe better than in Nashville. It’s smaller and it feels more authentic and less touristy. But I didn’t spend enough time in Nashville to truly make that call – just first impressions.

For more photos go to Wonderland Photography.

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Louisiana Bayou

Alice Lipka
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Louisiana Bayou

A visit to the Bayou was a “must see” on our Southern US road trip. I don’t think you can find landscapes like this anywhere in the world. We took the Acadian Swamp Tour.  It’s a ten minute ride from Nottoway Plantation, which is near White Castle Louisiana. There are many many tours near New Orleans, but we wanted something that was not too crowded and gentle on the ecosystem. Airboats are not great on the ecosystem so that was out. It had to be a quiet small boat so I could take photos and video. Acadian was perfect. We were the only ones on the boat!

Rodney is the owner of Acadian Swamp Tours and his stories (and accent) are delightful!  He took us out to Natchez lake and we saw a few alligators and the most amazing scenery.

On other tours they feed the alligators marshmallows to get them to come close to the boats, but this is bad for the alligator in many ways, and can be dangerous. Why feed junk food to alligators? Try to see nature in its natural state and not interfere with it. We enjoyed our trip and didn’t leave a damaging footprint. By the way, there are no crocodiles in Louisiana, only alligators. Apparently only Florida has two species of crocodiles – the rest are in Africa.

Check out some amazing photos of the Bayou at Wonderland Photography.

Warsaw Poland

Alice Lipka
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Warsaw Poland

Warsaw (Warszawa), Poland’s capital, is one of the best places to visit in Central Europe. It has a fascinating history, many cultural attractions and excellent food. And you can stay at first rate hotels for a very reasonable price. For me, it also has family history. My father lived in Warsaw during the war and was involved in the Warsaw Resistance movement that fought the Nazi occupation of Poland. That era is long gone (as is the forced Communism Poles had to endure) but you can still feel the past in the streets of the old town.

Warsaw Uprising Memorial in the old town

Attractions

Warsaw Uprising Museum – learn about the 1944 Uprising in which Warsaw residents fought off the Nazis for an unprecedented period of time (just over two months). In comparison, France, with the largest army in the world at the time, capitulated in a few weeks.

Warsaw Old Town –  Take a trip back in time with a stroll through Warsaw’s Old Town Square. It is the oldest part of Warsaw, built in the 13th century and significantly destroyed during WW2. It was rebuilt in its original architectural styles including Renaissance, Gothic, Baroque, and neoclassical. Today it is filled with cafes & restaurants,  shops, musicians, and galleries.

Lazienki Park – the last residence of the last King of Poland, Stanislaw Augustus Poniatowski, nestled in beautiful gardens with Chopin recitals weekly and various art exhibits. They have daily tours of the palace so you can wander through the beautiful interior rooms. We really enjoyed it.

Warsaw’s Royal Castle is situated in the old town’s Castle Square. It was a residence of Polish royalty between the 16th and 18th centuries. The castle was completely destroyed by the Germans in World War II, and not reconstructed until the 1980’s because the Communist regime did not want to highlight Poland’s illustrious past.

As a side bar, Poland was the first country in Europe to produce a democratic constitution (2nd in the world after the United States with France being the third). Poland has a very rich, progressive history. The Polish Nobility comprised about 10% of the population, while other European countries only had about 1% Nobility. Many Polish Nobles were not very wealthy, but they were all educated and drove Polish culture forward. Music, painting, literature and science thrived in Poland throughout most of its history.

The last King of Poland: Stanislaw Augustus Poniatowski

All Nobility, wether rich or poor, were considered equal and all had one vote in the parliament. Unfortunately this democratic stance is partially responsible for Poland’s downfall. It was not easy for the Nobles to agree with each other. That combined with an elected monarchy that had limited power, eventually led to the dismantling of Poland by the three surrounding powers – Russia, Prussia and Austria-Hungary.

Presidential Palace – The Presidential Palace is the latest version of a building that stood on the site since 1643. Over the years, it has been re-designed many times. It is open for tours.

Belvedere Palace – Near Lazienki Park, at 54 Belwederska street, is normally used by the President and the government for ceremonies. However, the President resides at the Presidential Palace in the city center. Belvedere also serves as a residence for Heads of State on official visits to Poland.

Copernicus Science Center – Contemporary science center with interactive exhibits, robotic theatre and a planetarium.

Chopin Museum – Rebuilt 17th-century mansion with musical scores, photographs & recordings of the composer’s work.

Warsaw Barbican – This large, 16th-century castle wall with towers was reconstructed in the mid-20th century. It is on the edge of the old town right in the center of the city.

Wilanow Palace – Restored 17th-century royal palace with a museum of fine arts, a baroque garden and landscaped park.

Its location is significant as it stands in the centre of the former Jewish Ghetto of the 1940’s when Poland was occupied by Nazi Germany.

The Museum of the History of Polish Jews (POLIN) is a newly opened, interactive and museum that also serves as a cultural centre. The main exhibition depicts the thousand-year old history of Jewish people in Poland. The Polish Kings encouraged Jewish settlement, hoping it would boost economic development. In the 13th century they were granted religious autonomy and became direct subjects of the King. Poland was the most tolerant country in Europe. It became a shelter for persecuted and expelled European Jews and the home to the world’s largest Jewish community.

The three partitions of Poland between 1764-1795 led to the destruction of Poland as a sovereign state. Polish Jews became subject to the laws of the partitioning powers, the increasingly antisemitic Russian Empire, Austria-Hungary and the Kingdom of Prussia. Poland regained independence in 1918, but was soon occupied by Nazi Germany during from 1939 to 1945. The second world war resulted in the death of one-fifth of the Polish population, with 90% or about 3 million of Polish Jewry killed.

After the war, Poland was involuntarily placed “under the sphere of influence” of the Soviet Union and forced into communism. Most of the remaining Jews left in late 1968 as the result of a Soviet-sponsored “anti-Zionist” campaign. The fall of the Communist regime in 1989 saw a major change for the better and religious institutions were revived. 

Where to Stay?

Our favorite places to stay are The Hotel Bristol and Hotel MaMaison. We both like old world style hotels instead of the glittering glass towers with modern furniture. You can’t get more classic than the Bristol Hotel. Opened in 1901, the Polish government held its first session there after Poland re-gained its independence in 1918. Many dignitaries stayed at The Bristol in the pre-war years, and since it is next to the Presidential Palace, it is still frequented by politicians (along with celebrities and travellers that enjoy quality).

The Bristol closed in 1981 and the building languished empty through the waning days of the Communist government. After the fall of Communism in 1989, the hotel was completely restored to its former glory. Today, it is a luxurious old world 5 star hotel with beautiful rooms, excellent restaurants and a swimming pool. Complimentary bottled water and free wi-fi!  And they have Senior rates for those 62 and older.

Our room at the Bristol

The other hotel we stay at, Hotel MaMaison is in a quieter area on the other side of the old town square. It is a luxurious 5 star boutique hotel at reasonable prices. It has well designed comfortable rooms, a charming lobby and excellent service. I really enjoyed the pool; it is salt water and quite deep. And they have a special rate for those over 55 if you book on their site!

Hotel MaMaison
Lobby of Hotel MaMaisaon

Where to Eat?

Both of the above hotels have excellent restaurants that I highlight recommend. They both offer delicious buffet breakfasts with a lot of variety, and dinner menus prepared by top chefs.

You can’t really go wrong with most dining choices in Warsaw. In the old town they have a few classic Polish restaurants with traditional hearty Polish food. The well known Restauracja Delicja is great for traditional Polish food and vibe.

For award winning fine dinning, try Nolita or Senses. For modern Polish Michelin rated try Elixir by Dom Wodki. And this cute French Bistro will not disappoint: Michel Moran. There are many more good restaurants in Warsaw, for casual dinning try one of the many small cafes. I’ve also had some of the best pasta in Warsaw over the years – some in casual little places in the downtown core, and an amazing smoked salmon pasta at the Bristol. Another restaurant worth mentioning is The Amber Room at the Sobanski Palace located on the historic Royal Route Ujazdowskie Avenue. It’s an elegant setting with antique chandeliers to enhance your fine meal.  For Asian food, try Why Thai.

Enjoy!

Munich Germany

Alice Lipka
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Munich Germany

Munich is a friendly city with great beer gardens, delicious Bavarian food, beautiful architecture, a wealth of museums, and many other attractions. Countless tourists go to Munich for Octoberfest, the folk festival running from mid or late September to the first weekend in October, but I prefer to visit at a less busier time. You can go to one of the many beer halls throughout the year without the crowds that descend on the city for Octoberfest. However, you may also want to try some of the fine dining; it’s not all beer and knackwurst in Munich.

The capital of Bavaria, Munich is the third largest city in Germany, after Berlin and Hamburg, and is an economic power house. It is a major centre of art, technology, finance, publishing, culture, education, business, and tourism. Munich has the highest standard of living in Germany and the lowest unemployment rate. It is also home to BMW World – the show room and museum of my favorite car manufacturer, and is a university town boasting two of Germany’s top higher learning institutions.

Munich is different from Berlin – it is a large city with a small town feel. Berlin, in my opinion, is the New York City of Europe, while Munich has more of a European / Austrian vibe. The Isar River, originating in the Alps, runs through the center of Munich and is a key attraction. The city also has a lot of green space ideal for hiking and biking.

Isar River

However, this city will always be, first and foremost, the city of my sister Janka, who lived in Munich for most of her life and recently passed away there. I visited her in Munich many times since the 1970’s and spent many evenings with her in the various beer gardens.

I highly recommend a visit to Munich. Bavaria is the heart of Germany, and Munich is what keeps it beating. You cannot visit Germany without visiting Munich.

New Town / City Hall (Rathaus) and domes of Frauenkirche, “Cathedral Church of Our Dear Lady” located in Marienplatz
Old Town Hall built around 1470 but the 180 foot tower attached to it is Talburg Gate, built in the 12th century to protect medieval Munich. Located in Marienplatz.

Things to do

Beer Halls and Beer Gardens  When you are in Munich you have to sample the Bavarian food and beer at least once. I love the large steins of beer, the delicious pretzels and rustic Bavarian food. Try some of the more authentic Bavarian dishes instead of just schnitzel or sausage. The various roasts with knodel or spaetzel and sauerkraut are amazing! The famed Hofbräuhaus, founded in 1589, located in the Old Town is certainly a must see, as is one of the preferred venues by locals Augustiner-Keller.

Museums – these are just a few of the many museums found in Munich:

Alte Pinakothek  Translated as the Old Picture Gallery, Alte Pinakothek is regarded by experts as one of the greatest galleries in the world. There are over 800 German, French, Dutch, Flemish, Italian and Spanish paintings from the 1200s to the 1800s. Rubens (one of the world’s largest collections) Titian, Rembrandt, and Da Vinci are some of the prestigious names you will encounter.

Neu Pinakothek  Some 400 paintings from the 1800s are on show at the “New” Pinakothek and they represent all of the influential movements from the century. There are German Romantics like Caspar David Friedrich and Karl Friedrich Schinkel, French Realists such as Delacroix and Courbet, and Impressionist Art by Degas, Cézanne, Monet, Gauguin and Renoir.

Deutsche Museum is an amazing science and technology museum. The museum sits on an island in the Isar river and maps the development of Science and Technology in Germany.

Rathaus (Town / City Hall) at Marienplatz

Marien Platz Glockenspiel is one of the most popular attractions in Munich. The chiming clock consists of 43 bells and 32 life-sized figures. The bells ring and the little dancers perform by moving to a waltz daily at 11 a.m. and noon (and 5 p.m. in the summer months). If you are wondering why large crowds have stopped to stare up at the tower, this is why. The show lasts about 15 minutes and concludes with the golden bird up the top emerging and chirping three times.

Nymphenburg Palace – photo by Wikipedia org.

Nymphenburg Palace is brimming with architectural splendour (from a variety of classical periods) and breathtakingly ornate interiors. This magnificent palace also boasts extensive gardens, a lovely spot in which to enjoy a picnic.

Royal Residenz

Residenz Royal Palace Inside, you’ll find the Crown Jewels, the State Collection of Egyptian Art, the Residenz Theatre and the Herkulessaal concert hall. Outside are courtyards, fountains, grottoes, a medicine room, a chapel and more.

Olympic Park

Olympic Stadium Park  While many former Olympic venues around the world tend to be forgotten, Munich’s 1972 Olympic Park is still a popular day out. The park is a massive activity centre where you can ride a zip-line over the iconic stadium, take part in watersports on the lake and ski on the hill in winter. There are also fairground amusements in summer, and no lack of places to grab a snack or meal.

Allianz Arena  Sports fans will love a trip around the arena, home to the city’s famous FC Bayern Munich. Their tour guides all speak English and they’ll take you round the locker room, trophy cabinet, press room and tunnel entrance. Or, even better, head along and watch a match – you’ll be truly blown away by the atmosphere!

Max and Benny

Hellabrunn Zoo  Established in 1911, it was one of the first in world to adopt moats and ditches as barriers instead of cages, but also introduced the concept of the Geo-Zoo, where animals are located according to their geographical regions. If you’re concerned about the zoo’s humane credentials, it takes part in breeding programs for endangered species like silvery and drill baboons, as well as elephants, Arctic foxes and gorillas.

English Garden

English Garden  Spend an afternoon wandering around the English Garden (or Englischer Garten), a 900-acre park with 78 km of hiking and cycling trails as well as a Greek temple, Chinese pagoda, Japanese tea house, and of course, a beer garden.

Octoberfest  The main Oktoberfest is held on the original meadow, named Wiesn, a short tram ride from the centre of Munich. It runs mid or late September to the first weekend in October.

Odeons Platz, one of Munich’s many towns squares. This is where Hitler tried to first seize power of Germany in 1923.

Odeonsplatz

BMW World (BMW Welt)

If you like cars, this is one of the most impressive museums of old and new BMW cars. Bavarian Motor Works started as an airplane engine manufacturer (the classic logo represents a propeller over the Bavarian sky) and is now one of the most revered car manufacturers in the world. For a while, BMW also had cars in the Formula One races. The museum is fascinating so plan to spend an afternoon, or longer.

BMW World / Welt

 

Where to Stay

  • Mandarin Oriental is probably the top hotel in Munich with 5 star luxury and prices.
  • Bayerischer Hof  is luxurious with reasonable prices and old world charm.
  • Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski vies with Bayerischer Hof as one of the most renowned hotels in Munich. It is located on Maximilianstrasse where the high end stores are found.
  • Hotel Königshof  is one Munich’s grand rebuilt pre-war hotels.
  • Sofitel Munich Bayerpost is in a great location with well designed modern rooms.
  • Le Meridien  hotels are always nice quality for a decent price.
  • Hotel Opera is a boutique hotel with stylish rooms and a beautiful garden.
  • Hotel Prinz is inexpensive, basic decent rooms and nice staff right on the Isar river.

Where to Eat

  • Atelier with 3 Michelin stars, it can’t be beat. It is a spectacular, but pricey restaurant.
  • Sohpia’s located in the Charles hotel, is another high end Michelin rated restaurant.
  • Tantris is a stunning restaurant that has held two Michelin stars since 1974, the longest period of any restaurant in Germany. It is one of the best in Germany.
  • Tegernseer Tal Brauhaus serves delicious Bavarian food.
  • Ratskeller, Hofbrahaus and Augustiner Keller serve good old Bavarian fare in a classic beer hall setting.
  • Esszimmer is located at BMW World and has excellent food.
  • Cafe Luitpold another Michelin rated restaurant, has outstanding pastries and fine food.
  • Cafe Glockenspiel is located in Marienplatz with excellent views of the famous Glockenspiel. Located on the fifth floor of the main building on the Marienplatz, the café serves up great beer and coffee and a delicious light menu.

Enjoy your visit to Munich!

Sonoma California

Alice Lipka
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Sonoma California

Sonoma Wine Country is a always a great excursion from San Francisco. It is known for great wines and great food. It has over 400 vineyards, and if you have time you can head over to Napa Valley which is just east of Sonoma.

Sonoma is about an hour drive north of SF, over the Golden Gate Bridge and past Sausalito. You can stop off at the observatory on the north side of the bridge to take photos of San Francisco.

Viansa Vineyard is one of the first vineyards on the route north, only about 30 minutes north of San Francisco. The legacy of Viansa Sonoma dates back to 1896 when Samuele Sebastiani arrived from Tuscany and saved enough money, while making cobblestones for San Francisco streets, to purchase vineyard property in 1904. They have wine tastings of course, good quality food and sitting areas inside and out. It is casual cafeteria style.

One of the most popular vineyards for patio sitting is Gloria Ferrer vineyard. Their family wine making history goes back 600 years to Spain. They have several restaurants, wine tastings, and a large patio that overlooks the vineyard. This vineyard specializes in sparkling wine (using the champagne method to get the delicate bubbles), and is the first to produce it in the region.

The food is great, and it’s a very enjoyable way to spend an afternoon.

Driving further north, about 10 minutes away is Cornerstone Gardens and Market Place, a wine country marketplace featuring a collection of local craft stores, gift shops, boutique wineries and tasting rooms, artisanal foods, art-inspired gardens, live music, and home to Sunset’s Gardens + Outdoor Test Kitchen. The Park 121 Cafe & Grill is a casual restaurant with tasty food at reasonable prices.

Known as the happiest place in California, the town of Sonoma is a good place to visit. The historic Sonoma Plaza, a remnant of the town’s Mexican colonial past, has great shops and restaurants. San Francisco Solano de Sonoma  an historic Sonoma Mission, founded in 1823, is located in the main square. A good restaurant to try here is The Girl & the Fig.

Take a look at a map and see which vineyards you want to go to, or just keep driving north and drop into places you see on the way. These are just a few of the vineyards in Sonoma. It is an easy day trip depending on how long you want to stay. If visiting Napa as well, you may want to stay overnight. They also have many organized tours from San Francisco, that way you can drink without worrying about driving.

Where to Eat?

There are so many good places to eat in Sonoma and Napa regions, that it is very hard to come up with a list. You can’t really find bad food in this area.

However, here are some of my pics:

This web sites provides more info on good restaurants in Sonoma county.

Where to Stay?

There are many great places to stay in Sonoma and Napa regions. Here are a few Sonoma area suggestions:

If you do go to Napa Valley, check out Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars (do not confuse it with Stag’s Leap Winery which is also in Napa Valley’s Stag’s Leap district). Founded in 1970, by a Polish man from Chicago, Warren Winiarski (ironically his last name in Polish means “son of wine maker” even though his family was never in the wine business). It is the vineyard that put California (and the US) on the map for serious wine lovers. It won a prestigious award at the 1976 “Judgement of Paris” blind tasting for its 1973 S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon.

I love their wines! My favourite is Artemis. I can’t afford Cask 23, but maybe one day I will get to try it.

Another Napa Valley vineyard, Chateau Montelena Winery won the white wine award at the Paris competition:  Chateau Montelena 1973. The French were stunned. This was featured in the movie “Bottleshock”.

And try Oakville Grocery for casual good food. I also tried Michelin rated The French Laundry a few years ago, and although yes it is high end fine dinning, I think you can find excellent quality at better prices in Napa. In my opinion, it’s a bit over-rated.

Here is a guide for Napa Valley restaurants: Napa Valley.com 

Enjoy! Cheers!

California Coast

Alice Lipka
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California Coast

  A drive along the California Pacific Coast Highway 1 is one of the most scenic drives in the world. This blog describes several trips along the California coast.

I’ve been to California many times, mostly in San Francisco Bay area, Carmel by the Sea and Monterey. It never gets tiring. I also went to San Simeon to see the Hearst Castle, Big Sur, Mission Ranch, Half Moon Bay and to Point Reyes, north of San Francisco. For more photos go to Wonderland Photography.

Point Reyes

The furthest north I’ve been on the west coast is Point Reyes. Point Reyes National Seashore is a 71,028-acre park preserve in Marin County, California. It is a national seashore, maintained by the US National Park Service as an important nature preserve. It is about an hour north of San Francisco.

By National Park Service Digital Image Archives

It is often foggy in the area and, as a result, there are quite a few old ship wrecks off the coast.  Sir Francis Drake landed somewhere near the area on June 17, 1579 and proclaimed it New England. Rumors of Drake’s discovery of a safe harbor on the California coast intrigued the Spanish, and so they followed suit. For more history info, click on the Point Reyes link.

Pierce Point Ranch, Tomales Point, Point Reyes Lighthouse, the Elk Reserve, and Safaris are some of the attractions. It is an easy walk to the Pacific from Pierce Point Ranch along the Tomales Point trail. The scenery is spectacular and it’s an easy day trip from San Francisco.

Where to Eat and Sleep?

Point Reyes Station is a small town near the coast. They have several great quality restaurants and quaint B&Bs.  The West Marin Food and Farm tours is very popular and has high ratings. The California Happy Cows are found in this area. How happy are they? Life on a small family farm is probably good, but large factory farms still exist and using animals to mass produce anything will never be good for an animal, or for your health.

As a side bar, I’m impressed that then-California Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger signed a bill that essentially prohibited, as of 2015, any egg from being sold in the state that comes from caged hens. California always has been a leader in humane treatment of beings, but there is still more to do.

Half Moon Bay & Pescadaro

Half Moon Bay is a coastal city in San Mateo County just outside of San Francisco. This is a good short day-trip to see the ocean and have lunch at the Ritz Carlton.

Photo by Half Moon Bay Golf

Jimmy was thrilled to sink his feet into the Pacific Ocean! This was the end of the road for the California pioneers. The edge of the western perimeter. I wonder what they felt and thought when they encountered this vast body of water.

Pescadaro

Pescadero is just  south of Half Moon Bay. It is a farming and ranching community near the Pescadero Marsh, a wildlife refuge. It is also a weekend tourist destination during the summer months because of beaches, parks including Memorial Park and Butano State Park, as well as extensive rural roads for biking and trails for hiking in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Attractions include Duarte’s Tavern, Pescadero Country Store, Arcangeli Grocery Co (Norm’s Market / Bakery), Sante Family Wines, Harley Farms Goat Dairy, and Taqueria y Mercado de Amigos, an acclaimed taqueria in the local gas station.

Pescadero hosts the annual Pescadero Art and Fun Fair (PAFF) on the third weekend of each August. The Alto Velo Bicycle Racing Club holds the annual Pescadero Coastal Classic Road Race, which travels through the town and nearby countryside, in early-to mid-June.

Monterey

“Monterey,” the song by Eric Burdon and The Animals, was set on auto play in Jimmy’s mind while we were there: “down in Monterey…”, so naturally I couldn’t get it out of my mind either. It will forever be associated with our trips there. Monterey is about a 2-hour drive, south of San Francisco.

This is such a beautiful and peaceful place. Monterey Bay is home to many sea lions, otters, huge seagulls and is a whale migration route. There are many whale-watching tours available. They go out twice a day. Early morning and an afternoon trip. There is fog in the morning, but it does clear by the time you get out further.  I went on a boat tour a few years ago and saw several whales, including one that jumped and slapped his tail on the water – full breach. Such glorious mammals!  Unfortunately, I didn’t get any good photos.

When we were there at the end of December it was still very warm.

Monterey Bay is right on Cannery Row, the site of old sardine factories (the last cannery closed in 1973).

We didn’t go into town, we just stayed on Cannery Row and the waterfront. It is nice to just relax by the ocean and watch nature. Monterey is known for its famous aquarium – Monterey Bay Aquarium. It is worth seeing and your ticket supports important marine biology research.

Where to Eat and Sleep?

There are several good restaurants in Monterey with fresh seafood (in fact the seafood restaurants in Monterey are legendary), but you can’t beat the view at the Monterey Plaza Hotel. The patio is right on the Bay. It is touristy, but it is worth it for the view. Food is good, fairly casual on the patio, but they do have fine dining in their main restaurant.

More options:

As for lodging, the Monterey Plaza Hotel is my first choice. An ocean-view room is advised. I like to wake up with an unobstructed view of the ocean and wildlife. In the morning, vocal otters were floating right in front of the window. It was so great to see! The hotel has a large rectangular hot tub on the roof facing the Bay so you can relax with a glass of sparkly, look up at the abundant stars above, and listen to the whooshing ocean below. It is heaven!

Carmel

Carmel by the Sea is a 15-minute drive south from Monterey. At sunset, everyone heads down Ocean Avenue to the end of the street so they can see the Pacific. And it is magnificent!

Carmel is a fine dinning mecca with more restaurants per square mile than any other small town. It is getting more and more crowded, but it is a worth while destination. There are a lot of artisan shops and high-end stores. The main street, Ocean Avenue, is where most of the hustle and bustle takes place. Although I have never stayed overnight, there is an abundance of small quality hotels and B&Bs to choose from. You can’t go wrong with any restaurant or lodging in this town.

However, here are a few suggestions:

Carmel City Hall. Clint Eastwood used to be mayor of the town and is a long-time resident.

Outside of Carmel, take the scenic “17-mile drive“ past Pebble Beach.  It is one of the most scenic drives in the world with magical Cyprus trees. You can start in Monterey or Carmel and work your way around the coast. South of Carmel, head out to Point Lobos for vistas that you will never forget.

Mission Ranch

From their web site: “The historic Mission Ranch sits on 22 acres with spectacular views of Point Lobos, Carmel River Beach and the Pacific Ocean. Once one of the first dairies in California, the rich history of this 1800’s ranch was preserved and restored by former Carmel Mayor, Clint Eastwood. A longtime Carmel resident, Clint Eastwood rescued this landmark resort from condo developers, and renovated the entire property to provide a unique resort experience.”

I had lunch at the Ranch, but would love to stay there next time. It is a great location, close to Carmel, the scenic “17-mile drive”, Point Lobos, and is just a nice place to relax.

San Carlos Borromeo de Carmel Mission, founded in 1770, is nearby. It is also known as the Carmel Mission or Mission Carmel, a Roman Catholic mission church. It is open for services and has a museum. California Missions are always a great place to visit to understand the history of the region.

Big Sur

If you keep driving south from Carmel you will run into Big Sur. Just when you thought it couldn’t get more stunning, it does. Big Sur is a rugged stretch of California’s central coast between Carmel and San Simeon. Bordered by the Santa Lucia Mountains and the Pacific Ocean, the Pacific Coast Highway has winding turns and steep inclines right at the edge of the cliffs. It is beautiful, but can be scary. I rented car that had a fairly loose suspension so making those turns caused considerable sliding from side to side.

This is the longest and most scenic stretch of undeveloped coastline in the United States and is sparsely populated. It has been described as a national treasure that “demands extraordinary procedures to protect it from development”. It does have lodging, state parks, camp grounds and restaurants so it is not completely desolate.

Cambria


Cambria is a seaside village in San Luis Obispo County – south of Big Sur – with countless scenic wonders. This is one of the West Coast’s most unique destinations, where natural beauty and outdoor recreation abound. From historical attractions such as the Hearst Castle, to the Elephant Seal Sanctuary, entertainment venues, excellent dining, and amazing shoreline with the best sunset views of the Pacific ocean, this is a great place to spend part or all of your vacation.

Hearst Castle, San Simeon

Photo from Hearst Castle web site

Hearst Castle is located in the San Simeon district. Keep driving south from Big Sur and you start to reach low land near San Simeon. The castle is half way between San Francisco and Los Angeles. Drive to the visitor center and park your car. You then take a Hearst Castle bus and ride five miles up the mountain. Cars are not permitted.

From their web site: “Hearst Castle’s history begins in 1865, when George Hearst purchased 40,000 acres of ranchland. In 1919, William Randolph Hearst inherited what had grown to more than 250,000 acres, and was dreaming of ways to transform it into a retreat he called La Cuesta Encantada—Spanish for “Enchanted Hill.” By 1947, Hearst and architect Julia Morgan had created Hearst Castle: 165 rooms and 127 acres of gardens, terraces, pools and walkways—all built to house Hearst’s specifications and to showcase his legendary art collection.”

William Randolph Hearst was an American newspaper publisher who built the nation’s largest newspaper chain. His life story was the main inspiration for Charles Foster Kane, the lead character in Orson Welles’s classic film “Citizen Kane“.

Mr. Hearst was infatuated with silent film star Marion Davies who became his mistress, and the castle was their retreat. Many Hollywood stars such as Charlie Chaplin, David Niven, Joan Crawford, Clark Gable, Errol Flynn, and Cary Grant were invited to the castle for parties. Apparently this was a highly coveted invite in the late 1920s. Only beer and wine were served and hard liquor was considered off limits by Mr. Hearst.

I went to the Hearst Castle about ten years ago. I don’t recall how I discovered that it existed, but I do recall that I was stunned that the US had a castle. It is grand, especially the pools. I love the old ketchup and mustard bottles. 

There is much to see that requires at least four hours. The Castle has a lot of art on display. Hearst acquired remarkable paintings, tapestries, sculptures, antiquities and furniture.

The Neptune Pool was being cleaned when I was there which allowed for this unique shot of the pool without water. If anyone recalls, this pool was in a famous Chanel perfume commercial.

Unique aspects of the Neptune Pool include the oil burning heating system, the light-veined Vermont marble decorating the pools and colonnades, and four 17th-century Italian bas-reliefs on the sides of the colonnades. I have never seen anything like it.

The other jaw dropping pool is the indoor Roman Pool. It is a tiled indoor pool decorated with eight statues of Roman gods, goddesses and heroes. The pool appears to be styled after an ancient Roman bath such as the Baths of Caracalla in Rome c. 211-17. Imagine swimming here? I can.

They do have a restaurant on site and there are hotels near by in San Simeon and Cambria. I stayed at the Best Western Cavalier Oceanfront Resort which is right on the ocean and has amazing views, but I found the room a bit smelly. They really need to give the sofa chairs a good cleaning. It could have been a one off, so it still is worth trying. It is the only hotel right on the ocean with great views from the rooms.

Enjoy the Hearst Castle! I thought it was a fascinating visit.

The California Coast is one of the nicest places on earth. It is paradise. Although I didn’t get to Santa Barbara (Jimmy has in the past) it is definitely on my list.

I am completed a blog called California Pioneer Trail about the story of the pioneers and the route they took across Utah, Nevada and the Sierra Mountains, with some ending their journey at Donner Lake. I followed their fascinating trail (by car) and looking forward to sharing it with you.

For more California photos go to Wonderland Photography.

Happy travels!

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