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Arizona

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Arizona is one of the most beautiful places on the planet. It is a pleasure to the senses and a photographer’s dream. The Grand Canyon, Monument Valley, Antelope Canyons, Horshoe Bend, Page and Lake Powell, Lake Mead, Sedona, Hopi and Navajo Reservations, Petrified Forest, Flagstaff, Lake Havasu City with the London Bridge, The Four Corners, Saguaro National Park, Jerome, Prescott, Phoenix, Tucson, Tombstone and the many deserts and small towns are all magnificent. How can so much beauty exist in one state? Well it does, and you can see it all. You can drive from Northern Arizona to Phoenix in a day.

Sedona Oak Creek Canyon

Eight day itinerary: On our recent trip we flew to Phoenix then drove immediately to Sedona (about 2.5 hours). We stayed overnight at Adobe Village Inn and did a quick tour of Sedona that day and part of the next day.

Day 2 we drove to Monument Valley stopping in at Wholefoods in Flagstaff to get snacks, water and wine (Navajo Nation is dry so the hotel does not serve alcohol). It is a four hour drive so you may want to break it up. We stopped along the way and had lunch in the desert.

Somewhere between Flagstaff and Monument Valley – lunch break

We arrived while it was still daylight (try not to drive at night; there are no lights on the roads and a lot of wildlife). We stayed for two nights at The View Hotel in Monument Valley.

On Day 4 we drove to Page which is about a 2.5 hour drive. We also spent two nights in Page because there is a lot to see in this area. We stayed at La Quinta.

On Day 6 we drove to the Grand Canyon South Rim entering the park through the East entrance. We stopped at the Cameron Trading Post for lunch before entering the park. From Page to the South Rim of the Canyon it is about 2.5 hours, but of course once you enter the park you will want to stop at every vista point. That evening we drove to Flagstaff (1.5 hours from South Rim) and stayed overnight at La Quinta Inn.

Sedona

Day 7 we took the scenic route 89a south to Sedona and stopped for lunch (an hour drive). Then we headed out toward Phoenix / Scottsdale but stopped in Jerome along the way (one hour drive from Sedona to Jerome). From Jerome to Scottsdale it is a 2.5 hour drive depending on traffic. We spent two nights in Scottsdale to finish off the trip. On day 9 we headed to the airport.

The land that is present-day Arizona is one of the oldest inhabited areas in the United States. Although statehood was achieved as recently as 1912, Arizona’s history began more than 12,000 years ago. The thing that struck me most about Arizona was the sense of peace you feel when driving through the desert. Of course it helped to listen to Ry Cooder while driving.

Northern Arizona is high elevation and it gets cold in the winter. In the summer it is hot during the day but the highest elevations such as Flagstaff, are much cooler than the desert areas. You need a jacket. On one trip, we encountered snow, hail, rain and heat in one day! As you head south to lower elevations near Phoenix it becomes progressively hotter. In the summer it is very hot in the Phoenix area; too hot to walk outside for long (we couldn’t take it for more than five minutes!).

Taken near Cameron

There are twenty-two sovereign American Indian communities currently in Arizona. The Hopi Nation, surrounded by the Navajo Nation, is one of the oldest tribes in Arizona. The Hopi village of Oraibi was founded in 1200 AD and is considered the oldest American town where people have continuously lived.

Our Navajo guide from Sacred Monument Tours at Monument Valley.

The Navajo Nation is a Native American territory covering about 17,544,500 acres, occupying portions of northeastern Arizona, southeastern Utah, and northwestern New Mexico in the United States. This is the largest land area retained by a Native American tribe, with a population of roughly 350,000.

Monument Valley

Magnificent places such as Monument Valley, Antelope Canyons, Horseshoe Bend and other scenic areas are all part of the Navajo Nation. I have a lot of respect for the native tribes and their land. It is truly an honour to visit them. Their land is spiritual and you can feel it.

The View Hotel

When visiting Monument Valley, the best place to stay is at The View Hotel owned by the Navajo tribe. The rooms have balconies facing the classic view with the three giant buttes. There is nothing like it! Please see the blog links above for this and other scenic areas in Northern Arizona. There is a per vehicle fee ($20) to enter the park even if you stay at the hotel (which is in the park).

Page

There is a lot to see near Page in Arizona. One of the key features is Horseshoe Bend. The Colorado River meanders into a horseshoe loop around one of the large buttes and the result is spectacular. Horseshoe Bend is located 5 miles downstream from the Glen Canyon Dam and Lake Powell within Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, about 4 miles southwest of Page. There is no fee and there are no lines.

Horseshoe Bend

And of course, not to be missed is Antelope Canyon. There is an upper and lower Antelope Canyon in slightly different areas (but not far apart). I recommend the lower canyon. The upper canyon has an amazing light beam piercing the canyon for a short period, but it is a very short window to capture any good photos – between 11:00 am and 1:00 pm. It is also more crowded and the tour is shorter. The lower canyon tour is about an hour and you can get many great shots. There is a lot of ladder climbing and small winding turns; you have to be fit and not claustrophobic. Please see our Antelope Canyon blog.

Antelope Canyon

Page is situated near Lake Powell, another fabulous location. Take boat ride and explore. One can easily spend many days here. Rainbow bridge is a unique feature that can only be accessed by boat. Lake Powell resort offers accommodations, several restaurants and many of the boat tours are located in the hotel lobby. There is a fee to enter this area because it is part of the National Park system ($30 per vehicle).

Lake Powell

There are many reasonably priced hotels in Page. We stayed at La Quinta, but next time would like to stay at the Lake Powell Resort. The resort has three or four restaurants, and definitely one of the few places that serves fine dinning. The views from the restaurants are spectacular.

Recommended places to eat:

Cameron Trading Post

Enroute to the Grand Canyon or anywhere south from the Page and Monument Valley area, you will likely pass by Cameron. Do yourself a favor and stop in to the Cameron Trading Post. They have great native jewelry, silver rings with turquoise, t-shirts and some cool souvenirs. And it’s the last restaurant for quite a while. The food is good.

The Grand Canyon South Rim

Of course one cannot do a blog on Arizona and not include a photo of the Grand Canyon. For more information on this majestic place, please check out my blog Grand Canyon. The entrance fee is $35 per vehicle.

Flagstaff

When heading south from the Grand Canyon (or heading north from Phoenix or Sedona) you will inevitably pass by or through Flagstaff (established in 1882). Now this is a cool town! We loved it. Flagstaff is surrounded by mountains, desert and ponderosa pine forests (the largest pine forest in North America). It’s a gateway to the San Francisco Peaks, home to Arizona’s tallest mountain (Humphreys Peak) and the Arizona Snowbowl ski resort. Route 66 passes through Flagstaff, and the Lowell Observatory is located here.

Downtown Flagstaff

Downtown Flagstaff is where you want to stay. It’s a cute old town, walkable, with good restaurants and bars (some with live music). However we stayed in another area at La Quinta Inn which was fine, but had to drive downtown for dinner.

Important to note that restaurants close around 9 PM during the week.  Tinderbox Kitchen is good restaurant to try, Diablo Burger is getting great reviews, Macy’s European Coffeehouse is highly recommend and Brix for a great dinner.

The famous hotel in downtown Flagstaff – Monte Vista

The classic old Hotel Monte Vista is famous for ghosts and guests of the past. John Wayne, Carol Lombard, Clark Gable, Bob Hope, Bing Crosby, Freddy Mercury and many others stayed here. There is a list of names and the rooms they stayed in on the hotel web site. Next time we visit, this is where we will stay. And there is a Wholefoods not too far away.

Coconino National Forest on route 89a heading toward Sedona

We took scenic route 89a through Oak Creek Canyon from Flagstaff to Sedona. It has been recognized as one of the Top 5 Most Scenic Drives in America by Rand McNally. The road winds through mountainous pine tree laden terrain so you need to drive slow. It is a narrow road with the mountain edge on the drivers side when heading south. This road leads to Sedona.

Sedona

Sedona is simply breathtaking! Red rock buttes, steep canyons, pine forests, a quiet peaceful town with hiking trails and a calmness that I have never experienced before. And it is surrounded by 1.8 million acres of national forest! It is also a place for a luxurious vacation with great food, wine, spa treatments and art galleries. It is not a late night town.

Bell Rock Sedona

Here is an excerpt from their website: “Sedona is equal parts rugged, equal parts resort. Regarded by Native Americans as sacred, Sedona continues to be recognized as a place of healing and spiritual renewal. Many come to experience the vortex energy centers of Sedona. Others want to prowl the 40-plus art galleries lining the streets, or to receive soothing treatments from the dozens of spa facilities. Most recently, with its nearby vineyards and tasting rooms, Sedona has emerged as a destination for wine enthusiasts.”

Cowboy Corral in the main street in downtown Sedona

In downtown Sedona you don’t want to miss Cowboy Corral for great Western shirts. Excellent quality and reasonably priced – around $120 USD.

L’Auberge with tables right on the river

One of the best restaurants in Sedona, and one with a great view by the river, is L’Augerge de Sedona / Cress on Oak CreekCondé Nast Traveller called L’Auberge one of the Southwest’s top ten restaurants, and it is impossible not to agree with them. This resort also has luxury hotel rooms and chalets. Also excellent are:

Best Western Sedona

On one trip stayed at the Best Western Inn of Sedona, which has amazing views, is reasonably priced and very comfortable. However, there are many great places to stay in Sedona. We also stayed at Adobe Village Inn which is a good value, but about a 20 minute drive from downtown Sedona.

Adobe Village Inn in Oak Creek Canyon

Other options:

Jerome

We drove from Sedona to Jerome en route to Phoenix. Jerome, a former copper mining town, was once known as the wickedest town in the West. It sits above what was the largest copper mine in Arizona and produced an astonishing 3 million pounds of copper per month. Men and women from all over the world made their way to Arizona to find work and maybe a new way of life.

Downtown Jerome

Today the mines are silent, and Jerome has become the largest ghost town in America. But it is not desolate. Jerome is now a bustling tourist magnet and artistic community with a population of about 450. We met some of the old California hippies here, now proud artisans with small shops. I bought a t-shirt with artwork and the caption: “And the beat goes on…” Cool place to see and great for photography.

As we got closer to Phoenix it started to get hotter and the cacti got bigger.

Phoenix – Scottsdale

Phoenix

Phoenix, the state capital, is a beautiful city surrounded by mountains. And it is very well designed: the streets are clearly named, there is ample parking, it is very clean and just plain nice. Right after we parked, city tourism staff on a golf cart zipped over and gave us some tourist brochures (maybe because we had Nevada plates). The Phoenix area is known for golf, retreats, spas, great outdoor ventures, nightclubs, and great restaurants. Phoenix is also the fasted growing city in the USA. Currently it is the 6th largest city in America and the only state capital with a population of more than one million residents. It is a driving city. You won’t find too many people walking around, especially in the summer.

Downtown Scottsdale

Scottsdale is an upscale city next to Phoenix. It has many high end restaurants, art galleries, artisans shops, hotels and resorts. This is the place you want to stay in.

Old Scottsdale – it was hot!

We stayed at the Valley Ho – I highly recommend it. It is reasonably priced (costs more during high season) and  the rooms are large with mid century modern furniture. The bathroom is also large with a huge jacuzzi bathtub and a shower. Loved it! They have two pools, unfortunately one has loud music blasting on Saturdays during off season, but they do have another pool that is long and good for laps. 

Our room at Valley Ho

The restaurants in the hotel are very good. We ate at the bar and had one of the best IPAs ever along with a nice pasta dish.

Valley Ho bar and lounge

Other luxury options are: The Boulders, The PhoenicianSanctuary Camelback Mountain Resort, Andaz Scottsdale Resort & Spa, The Fairmont, and many more. Scottsdale has no shortage of good hotels. I think I’m quite content staying at Valley Ho again.

Arcadia Farms Cafe

And Scottsdale has no shortage of fine dining. It is a mecca for quality food. Arcadia Farms Cafe is amazing for brunch. It is a must. Farm fresh and delicious.

Cafe Monarch – excellent food!

We also recommend Cafe Monarch. It is expensive but the food is delicious and the service spectacular. Good old world quality service with waiters that know their stuff.  Also try Citizen Public House and FNB (a current darling of the Scottsdale food scene).

Cafe Monarch

And if you want to try some Arizona wine, they have wine tasting in downtown Scottsdale at Aridus wines. They have award winning wines and a good selection. I had no idea that Arizona produced such nice wine!

Aridus Winery

I loved driving through the peaceful desert and I loved seeing Arizona. Try playing Ry Cooder Paris Texas as you drive. It fits in perfectly! Go see Arizona, you will love it!

Joshua Tree

More Arizona blogs found in Grand Canyon, Monument Valley, Horseshoe Bend, Antelope Canyon, Lake Powell and Tombstone.

For more photos of Arizona please go to Wonderland Photography.

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Grand Canyon Arizona

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I have been to the Grand Canyon three times now; once to the West Rim and twice to the South Rim. The South rim is where the big magnificent classic vistas are found. The West rim is smaller, but you can take a day trip from Vegas. They have helicopter trips that are reasonably priced and take only half a day.

The company we chose was Maverick Tours, but there are many in Vegas. I picked this company because it has the top safety record of any tourism-based aviation company in the world, they have new quiet ECO-Star helicopters, and their helicopters feature wrap around glass and theatre seating for good visibility. Everyone has a good view. By the way, the pilot is pointing to Lake Mead. We also flew over Hoover Dam.

We had great seats right up front! It was perfect for filming my video. They have various packages, but we took the afternoon trip which was about 4 hours in total. The ride was unbelievable! I loved looking at the desert from above and then when you approach the canyon – WOW! The chopper flies into the canyon and down to the reserved picnic area.

This company has a dedicated spot that they are allowed to land in about half way down the canyon. The West rim is not as impressive as the South Rim, but it does give you a sense of what it is like, and if you have never been, it still is quite spectacular. The Grand Canyon is 277 river miles (446km) long, up to 18 miles (29km) wide, and a mile (1.6km) deep. Based on archeological evidence, hunter gatherers passed through the canyon 10,000 or more years ago. The ancestral Puebloan people have lived in and around the canyon for several thousand years, leaving behind dwellings, garden sites, food storage areas, and artifacts. Modern tribes still consider Grand Canyon their homeland.

When you are in the Canyon, the thing you notice most is the utter silence. It is quiet like you have never experienced and very peaceful. Plus it is very hot (over 100 degrees F) but dry heat so it was bearable.

The tour company provides a light lunch with sparkling wine and water. We were both very impressed with this tour and highly recommend it for a quick glance at the Grand Canyon. And with a helicopter tour, you bypass all the long lines at the canyon. Apparently they are getting very long these days, especially at the South Rim.

On a previous trip I travelled to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon by car from Las Vegas. It takes about 40 minutes to get to Hoover Dam, and then it can take a while to get across since it is very congested and everyone drives slow to see the view. You can park and walk around. The structure is gigantic and worth a getting a few pics. Total travel time to South Rim from Vegas is about 5 hours.

I stayed at the Best Western in Tusayan, which is about a 15 minute drive to the South Rim entrance (without traffic). There are several good hotels within the park grounds, but they are much more expensive and usually booked solid for months in advance. Hotel El Tovar is where I would stay next time. They do have camp sites as well. Check out the Grand Canyon Park website for information. There is one hotel at the bottom of the canyon, Phantom Ranch. It can only be reached by mule, on foot or by rafting the Colorado river.

This smart crow followed me around

The South Rim is open 24 hours a day, 365 days of the year including holidays. The entrance station is open 24 hours but the Park’s Visitor Center and other facilities are open 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. during the peak months of May-September and off-peak of October-April from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. The 2018 fee is $35 per car. The summer is peak season and the car line to get in is very long.

Tip: Go as early as possible in the morning to avoid the lines. Or drive in through the east gate near Cameron. The Cameron Trading Post is worth going to for great silver and turquoise jewelry, t-shirts and cool souvenirs. Plus they have a restaurant with pretty good food.

The historic district is a must see. The district comprises the historic center of Grand Canyon Village and includes numerous landmark park structures, many of which are National Historic Landmarks. It began to take shape as stage coaches loaded with passengers began arriving to view the Grand Canyon over one hundred years ago.

The Grand Canyon is easily a full day trip, or longer. There is so much to see and so much to photograph. It is the trip of a lifetime. You will never see such beauty and awesomeness as this. It is a World Wonder.

For more Arizona stories go to the Arizona blog.  And check out these:  Horseshoe Bend, Lake Powell, Monument Valley, and the amazing colorful Antelope Canyon. Also visit the blog describing the home of the big gunfight at OK Corral in Tombstone.

And for more photos go to Wonderland Photography.

Chicago Illinois

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Chicago Illinois, located in the mid west USA on Lake Michigan, is a city with a lot of history, great architecture, excellent restaurants and very friendly people. It is a smaller, nicer version of New York City, and second most visited city in the US after NYC. It has a pleasant small town vibe (even with the 3d largest population in the USA), but with the sophistication of an urban metropolis. Chicago is an international hub for finance, commerce, industry, technology, telecommunications, and transportation.

Chicago is the birthplace of the skyscraper and considered the most influential architectural city of the 20th century. The skyline punctuated by skyscrapers such as the iconic John Hancock Center, the Willis Tower (formerly the Sears Tower), the Wrigley building, and the neo-Gothic Tribune Tower.

The city is also renowned for its museums, including the Art Institute of Chicago with its noted Impressionist and Post-Impressionist works.

Chicago Skyline

Things to do

In most cities, we recommend the hop on hop off tour buses. It’s a good way to get to many attractions and really see the city.  Here are some key places to visit:

Architecture boat tour

We took the Wendella Architecture Boat Tour along the Chicago River and loved it. The guides are very knowledgeable about the history of Chicago architecture and present the stories in a fascinating way. The tour lasts about 90 minutes. They serve drinks. For photography take the tour an hour before sun set – at dusk. My photos from the boat were taken at dusk and then the last ones were at night (it was too dark for the evening shots without a tripod).

Chicago River at DuSable Bridge

For more photos from the boat tour go to my photography site: Wonderland Photography.

Macy’s

Chicago has the flagship Macy’s store, but the reason to go there is to view the interior. It is gorgeous! Plus they always have good deals on clothing and accessories.

Macy’s famous ceiling

For fans of the Blues, you cannot skip Chess Records and the Willie Dickson Blues Museum. This, and Sun Records in Memphis, is where Rock n’ Roll started. It is closed on Sunday and Monday.

Chess Records
Willie Dixon’s Blues Museum

Millennium Park

Millennium Park consists of a civic center and huge park with many points of interest and open green lawns. The site holds a variety of public art plus the Jay Pritzker Pavilion, a band shell designed by Frank Gehry and the McCormick Tribune Plaza and Ice Rink which is used for public events. Other highlights of the park include the Wrigley Square, site of the Millennium Monument; Harris Theatre and the Crown Fountain, an interactive video art piece where faces of Chicago residents are displayed on huge towers and fountains rise up from a black granite floor where people can play in the water. The Crown Fountain also features two waterfalls cascading down 15 meter high walls of glass bricks and dancing lights. The park is connected to the northwestern section of Grant Park by the BP Pedestrian Bridge and Nicholas Bridgeway.

Grant Park

Agora is an installation of 106 headless and armless iron sculptures at the south end of Grant Park in Chicago. Designed by Polish artist Magdalena Abakanowicz, they were made in a foundry near Poznań between 2004 and 2006. In 2006, the Chicago Park District brought the work to Chicago as a permanent loan from the Polish Ministry.

Art Institute of Chicago

The art held at this museum is truly some of the best in the world. The permanent collection consists mainly of impressionist and post-impressionist work but there is also a fantastic collection of American art, decorative arts, modern, contemporary and Asian art as well as European Old Masters. There is a photography collection, ancient art, armor from the Middle Ages, architectural elements, prints, textiles and a room devoted to miniatures.  The museum is spread over eight buildings and is the second largest art museum in the USA after the New York Met.

Highlights of the museum include 30 paintings by Monet and works by Renoir, Cezanne, Picasso, Matisse, Magritte, Toulouse-Lautrec and Van Gogh. Among the outstanding works by van Gogh there is his Self-portrait and Bedroom in Ares. Among the collection of American works there are pieces by Mary Cassatt, Edward Hopper and James N. Wood. The American Decorative Arts Gallery includes furniture designed by Frank Lloyd Wright and in the ancient civilizations section there are Egyptian, Greek and Roman galleries. There is a powerful African American Art Collection where the progress in civil rights can be traced through the historical works of art and illustrations.

Chicago Art Institute

Willis Tower Skydeck

The tower has 110 floors and stands at 442 meters above the sidewalk; it is one of the tallest buildings in the world. You can walk on one of the retractable glass balconies which extend 1.2 meters out of the façade, and look through the floor all the way down.

John Hancock Building

The former John Hancock Observatory is an observatory deck at the top of the John Hancock Center on Chicago’s Magnificent Mile. The latest addition to the activities at the observatory is the 360 Chicago Tilt. Eight visitors at a time stand on a platform which juts out and over the edge of the building. They stand facing a floor to ceiling glass wall and then the wall tilts downwards 30° so that the visitors can see not only out but directly down. The reinforced box consists of a tipping box, eight windows, bars to hold on to and a lot of steel.

Chicago River and Skyline – John Hancock building

More things to do:

  • Magnificent Mile
  • Navy Pier
  • Lakefront Trail
  • Shedd Aquarium in Grant Park – one of the largest in the world
  • The Field Natural History Museum in Grant Park
  • Museum of Science and Industry
  • Lincoln Park Zoo
  • The Chicago Theatre
  • Chicago Crime Tours
  • Museum of Modern Art
  • Wrigley Field
  • Frank Lloyd Wright Residence
  • Rookery Historic Building
  • Marina City Building
Marina City Condos

Marina City was designed by visionary architect Bertrand Goldberg and completed in 1962. Perched on the edge of the Chicago River, the all-concrete complex suddenly made it cool to live downtown and included innovative amenities such as an on-site grocery store, bowling alley, and marina. The twin towers’ famous corn cob shape make the duo an instantly recognizable Chicago icon. Featured in the Blues Brothers movie.

Wrigley Building

Evening Entertainment

For entertainment, there are a lot of great venues. We went to Buddy Guy Legends and Andy’s Jazz Club. Many restaurants feature live music so you can plan a dinner and see a show at the same time. If you want to see great Blues, you have to go early to get a seat because they are often small venues and fill up quickly.

Buddy Guy playing at his club Legends

Other Blues & Jazz venues:

BLUES Bar
Andy’s Jazz Club

And you can just wander around the streets of Chicago to enjoy the pleasant atmosphere.

In front of Chicago River and Wrigley building at DuSable Bridge
Chicago Tribune Building
Men’s Athletic Association Hotel
Jewelers Building and Stratosphere Lounge – the lounge was an Al Capone hang out.
The Chicago River – it really is that green!
The Loop with the elevated subway train
333 Wacker Drive office building
London Guarantee Building 1923 and Jewelers Building (35 East Wacker) camera right
Chicago Tribune Building and Apple store
Navy Pier

Public Art

Throughout downtown there are many beautiful art installations. Miro, Picasso and other artists have their worked sprinkled all over the Loop and vicinity.

Calder’s Flamingo
Picasso
Cloud Gate aka “The Bean”
Miro

Where to Stay

I think the best area to stay in is Near North (Magnificent Mile with a lot of great restaurants is located here) or North East part of the Loop. There are a lot of hotels in this area. We stayed at the Virgin Hotel. The staff is super friendly and the room layout is excellent; nice and spacious with good lighting for makeup. And they don’t charge extra fees or nickel and dime you. Room service is reasonably priced with no delivery fee, and the treats in the room are at retail prices.

Our room at the Virgin Hotel
Lobby at Virgin Hotel

Where to Eat

Bar at Virgin Hotel

Chicago has a lot of great restaurants. It was hard to pick and choose just a few.

The famous Shaw’s Crab House

Enjoy your visit to Chicago!

Chicago waterfront and skyline

Silicon Valley California

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Palo Alto and Menlo Park are two beautiful towns adjacent to each other in Silicon Valley, just south of San Francisco. I’ve been to this area many times because two of my close friends moved here about 20 years ago. It’s always a pleasure to visit them. I will never forget the first time I arrived in the Bay area – I was surprised at just how breathtaking the landscape is; I recall blurting out “it’s so beautiful I’m going to cry”. Yes the scenery is striking, but equally impressive is the quality of everything. California, specifically the Bay area, is at the forefront of technology, environmentalism, the organic food movement and much more. The small towns in Silicon Valley are only small in square footage and population. There is nothing “small” about them in any other way. They are picturesque and peaceful sophisticated enclaves with some of the best food, art and culture in the world.

Menlo Park residential street

Menlo Park is one of the most educated cities in the United States; nearly 70% of residents over the age of 25 have earned a bachelor’s degree or higher. It is also known as a hub for Venture Capitalists. The main downtown street is Santa Cruz Avenue. It has many artisan shops, an excellent camera store, a weekend farmer’s market, and many excellent cafes and restaurants.

Downtown Menlo Park

Menlo Park has gained notoriety in the last few years as the home of Facebook. Home prices, not cheap to begin with, shot up drastically after Facebook moved in. But it is helping revive East Menlo Park and East Palo Alto. There is no visitor center at Facebook, but many go to get photo in front of the Like sign (you can park on the campus for free).

Facebook in Menlo Park

Restaurants in Menlo Park that local friends and I recommend:

  • Yum Cha Palace on 1039 El Camino serves great dim sum (and you can find the Facebook founder here from time to time).
  • Left Bank on Santa Cruz is a popular family friendly restaurant where you can always get a decent meal served by super friendly staff. It serves southern French food and has outdoor seating.
  • Cafe Borrone at El Camino and Santa Cruz is excellent for breakfast and lunch, serving organic and locally sourced fare. They are also open for dinner. The food is reasonably priced.
  • The BBC (British Bankers Club) at the corner of El Camino and Santa Cruz offers lunch and dinner in a beautiful comfortable setting. It has an oyster bar, a variety or entrees and small plates, charcuterie, cheese, house made breads, and extensive spirit, wine, beer, and scotch selection.
  • Cafe Vida on Santa Cruz is a French bistro with staples like steak frites, oysters & onion soup served with wine in an intimate setting.
  • Cooks Seafood is a full service fish market & seafood restaurant known for their fish ‘n’ chips. It has got to be the best fish n’ chips we have ever tried (even better than the amazing fish and chips we tried in Belfast). It is located at the corner of El Camino and Roble Ave.
  • Flea Street located in West Menlo Park at Santa Cruz and Alameda, is one of the original organic restaurants. Forty years ago Jesse Cool led a movement of preparing and serving only fresh, in-season, organic and local ingredient-driven meals. The flagship of that movement is Flea St. Cafe (and previously Late for the Train).
  • Menlo Grill and Bistro Bar on 100 El Camino is a classic American eatery, inside the Stanford Park Hotel, with fine locally sourced foods.
  • Madera is in the Rosewood Sandhill Hotel. The grand open kitchen, roaring fireplace, and large outdoor patio complete with gorgeous views of the Santa Cruz mountains draw a moneyed crowd of local techies. Received a Michelin star in 2018.
BBC in Menlo Park

Palo Alto, home to Stanford University, serves as a central economic focal point of Silicon Valley, and is home to more than 7,000 businesses employing more than 98,000 people. It has casual and upscale restaurants, many independent boutiques and beautiful architecture. It is a pleasant town to stroll through.

Palo Alto Cal Train Station

Palo Alto is one of the most expensive cities in the United States to live in and its residents are amongst the highest educated in the country. It has one of the highest PHDs per capita ratios in the world. What does that mean for the visitor? It means you will find quality everything: Good food, great shopping and fascinating conversations.

Downtown Palo Alto

Restaurants in Palo Alto that local resident friends and I recommend:

  • Evvia apparently is a draw for tech billionaires by day and couples in the evening. The food is standard Greek fare “raised to new heights utilizing the wealth of fresh produce, meats and seafood in California” with much of the menu cooked in a wood-fired grill. Michelin rated in 2018. Located at 420 Emerson St.
  • Reposado on Hamilton Avenue serves fine Mexican food and tequila.
  • Tai Pan on Waverley Street serves Hong Kong-style Cantonese food.
  • Philz Coffee brews every cup “One Cup at a Time”, crafting a perfect cup to every individual customer’s taste. There are two locations in Palo Alto: 3191 Middlefield Road and 101 Forest Avenue, and several locations in the Bay area.
  • St. Michael Alley was founded in 1959 and was the first coffee house on the peninsula. Its bohemian atmosphere attracted many from the beatnik era including the Grateful Dead, Joan Baez, and Jefferson Airplane. Today it is a brasserie with fine food served for lunch and dinner. It is located at 140 Homer Avenue.
  • Vino Locale on Kipling street features regional wines, seasonal & organic fare, plus a patio with live music most evenings.
  • Baume serves more high end, high priced food. The chef pays enormous attention to detail ensuring food is refined and well balanced. This is fine dining at its best. The tables are spaced widely for privacy and never rushed. The restaurant received 2 Michelin stars in 2018. It is located at 201 South California Avenue.
  • The Village Pub has a high end clientele with prices to match, but lunch is fairly reasonable. Entrées include almond wood-grilled pork loin, adorned with crispy shrimp-pork croquettes, pungent black garlic, and caramelized Brussels sprouts. The signature chocolate soufflé is not to be missed. Received a Michelin star in 2018. 2967 Woodside Road.
  • Zola is open for dinner only. It serves a French bistro menu with Californian flair and is reasonably priced. Michelin rated in 2018. 565 Bryant St.
Downtown Palo Alto restaurant

No visit to the area is complete without going to Stanford University. This is one of the key attractions in the area. The grounds and buildings are impressive. They have various walking tours or you can do a self guided tour. The university has several galleries, sculpture gardens and over 80 outdoor works of art.

Stanford University
Stanford University

The grounds contain a notable group of Rodin sculptures that are great for posing with.

Rodin Sculptures at Stanford University

Next to Stanford University is another key attraction: Stanford Shopping Center. This has got to be one of the most beautiful outdoor malls. It has cafe’s, a few restaurants and a lot of great stores. A few notable eateries:  Tender Greens, Cocola Bakery and PF Chang.

Stanford Shopping Center

One of the most popular areas for walks and jogs is known as The Dish.  It is named after the large old radio-telescope used for research in the Stanford foothills and visible throughout the area. The paved trail climbs the hills and offers spectacular views of the Peninsula, the campus and the coastal mountains. On a clear day visitors can see San Francisco, Oakland, San Jose and the East Bay. The main loop trail is 3.5 miles and takes about an hour and fifteen minutes to walk. No dogs or bicycles allowed.

The Dish – Stanford Edu photo

And if you are in the mood for ice skating, there is no better place than the Winter Lodge. It has outdoor fireplaces and comfy sofas – plus you can skate in a t-shirt! It’s a bit different than in Canada.

Winter Lodge Skating Rink Palo Alto

Palo Alto and Menlo Park are an easy day trip from San Francisco, or you can stay at one of the many excellent hotels in the area. The closest hotels to Stanford (right on the edge of campus) are the Sheraton, Westin, Clement and Stanford Terrace. Only three hotels, The Epiphany, the Garden Court and the Cardinal, are located in the heart of downtown Palo Alto. For reasonably priced European luxury try the Stanford Park Hotel at the border of Menlo Park and Palo Alto. For longer stays, the Residence Inn  or Menlo Park Inn are a good options. Cowper Inn in Palo Alto is a small B&B with a good breakfast. And for a luxurious retreat, the Rosewood Sandhill is an excellent option.

Attractions near by

There are many attractions close to Menlo Park and Palo Alto. Los Gatos (city of cats) with its historic architecture, artisan shops, stunning scenery and fine dinning is only half an hour away in the Santa Cruz Mountains.

Los Gatos

It is one of the oldest communities in the county and is very much part of Silicon Valley, with several high tech companies maintaining a presence here, including Netflix.

Los Gatos Canada Building

We had a great meal at We Olive on Santa Cruz Avenue, but you can’t go wrong with any restaurant on the main two streets (University and Santa Cruz).

Everything was good at We Olive, but the fig spread was spectacular!

Another picturesque town close to Los Gatos is Saratoga, the most expensive suburb in California. You will find high end restaurants and shops, and a nice village vibe.

Saratoga

If you keep heading west you will end up in Santa Cruz on the pacific coast (about half an hour drive). Its long wharf, with eateries and shops, stretches into Monterey Bay. Nearby, the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk’s vintage rides include the 1911 Looff Carousel and the Giant Dipper roller coaster. Downtown, Pacific Avenue has vintage clothing stores, cafes and galleries.

Santa Cruz beach at the Pacific Ocean

Another short day trip is a drive up route 84 just outside of Menlo Park into a different part of the Santa Cruz mountains. You will reach a cross roads where route 84 and 35 meet at Alice’s Restaurant. This is a good place to stop for a meal along the way. Nestled among the pine trees and near the summit of the mountain, the air is so refreshing!

Santa Cruz Mountains – Alice’s Restaurant

Driving along the winding road through the mountains with the tall pine trees is a relaxing enjoyable journey. If you keep going west and down the other side of the mountain you will drive by farm land and fairly desolate regions.

Santa Cruz Mountains

At the end of Rte 84 is San Gregorio, population 214, and the Pacific ocean. Stop into the General store at the corner and check out the merchandise. They have cool t-shirts, vintage knick knacks, clothing, some toys, sandwiches and refreshments.

General store in San Gregorio

This little shack across the from the General Store has a rather interesting facade. Not sure what goes on there; we didn’t venture in. Clearly, it’s not your standard Silicon Valley abode. The western side of the mountain range is not as affluent as the east side. It’s more of a farming and ranching community, with homes far apart and lots of land in between.

San Gregorio

The Pacific Ocean lies at the foot of route 84. This is the end of the road – you have reached the western end of the contintent. From here you can go north to Half Moon Bay, or south to Pescadaro. In either direction, you will encounter unbelievable views of the Pacific ocean. For more information on the coast please go to my California Coast blog.

The Pacific Ocean at Pescadaro

One last location I’d like to mention is Mountain View, just south of Palo Alto. It houses the Computer History Museum, which is a fascinating visit. The city has gorgeous views of the Santa Cruz Mountains, nice restaurants and beautiful hiking trails.

Downtown Mountain View

Enjoy your trip to Silicon Valley!

For more photos of California please visit Wonderland Photography. Enjoy your visit to California.

Monterey California

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Monterey

“Monterey,” the song by Eric Burdon and The Animals, was set on auto play in Jimmy’s mind while we were there: “down in Monterey…”, so naturally I couldn’t get it out of my mind either. It will forever be associated with our trips there. Monterey is about a 2-hour drive south from San Francisco.

This is such a beautiful and peaceful place. Monterey Bay is home to many sea lions, otters, huge seagulls and is a whale migration route. There are many whale-watching tours available. They go out twice a day. Early morning and an afternoon trip. There is fog in the morning, but it does clear by the time you get out further.

I went on a boat tour a few years ago and saw several whales, including one that jumped and slapped his tail on the water – full breach. Such glorious mammals!  Unfortunately, I didn’t get any good photos.

When we were there at the end of December it was still very warm. The sea gulls are huge!

Monterey Bay is right on Cannery Row, the site of old sardine factories (the last cannery closed in 1973). In John Steinbeck’s famous novel “Cannery Row”, he described the street as, “a poem, a stink, a grating noise, a quality of light, a tone, a habit, a nostalgia, a dream.” The canneries had long pipes that went out into the Bay and sucked sardines directly into the factory. How horrifying for the fish!

We didn’t go into town; we just stayed on Cannery Row and the waterfront. It is nice to just relax by the ocean and watch nature. Monterey is known for its famous aquarium – Monterey Bay Aquarium. It is worth seeing and your ticket supports important marine biology research. At the time we were there, they had a resident octopus that played with an orange ball. Very intelligent creatures. Apparently, they have brains in each arm and blue blood. No need to go to the end of the universe to find strange creatures, we have plenty right here that we have yet to understand and appreciate.

Where to Eat and Sleep?

There are several good restaurants in Monterey with fresh seafood (the seafood restaurants in Monterey are legendary), but you can’t beat the view at the Monterey Plaza Hotel. The patio is right on the Bay. It is touristy, but well worth it for the view. Food is good, fairly casual on the patio, and they do have fine dining in their main restaurant.

More options:

As for lodging, the Monterey Plaza Hotel is my first choice. An ocean-view room is advised. I like to wake up with an unobstructed view of the ocean and wildlife. In the morning, vocal otters were floating right in front of the window. It was so great to see! The hotel has a large rectangular hot tub on the roof facing the Bay so you can relax with a glass of sparkly, look up at the abundant stars above, and listen to the whooshing ocean below. It is heaven!

 

There is so much more to explore in Monterey, so we will definitely have to go back!

For more photos of California please visit Wonderland Photography. Enjoy your visit to California.

 

Detroit Michigan

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Detroit, Motor City, is alive and well, at least when it comes to tourism. Downtown is hopping on the weekend. It has some great hotels, excellent restaurants, and the people are super friendly. We both loved the vibe and hope to visit again.

The city currently has a population just under 700,000 and over four million in the greater metro area. In its heyday, it was the fourth largest city in the US, however due to industrial decline and loss of jobs in the auto industry, Detroit’s population has declined by more than 60 per cent in the late 20th century. I’m sure you have seen photos of the abandoned homes and neighbourhoods in decay, however, the city is rebuilding itself and, if anything, it is now a land of opportunity. National Geographic has good article on Detroit. Indeed, it is a cool city.

Detroit’s diverse culture has had both local and international influence, particularly in music, with the city giving rise to the genres of Motown and Techno, and playing an important role in the development of Jazz, Hip-hop, Rock, and Punk music (MC5 and Iggy Pop). Alice Cooper and Kid Rock are also from Detroit.

Greektown

Downtown is bustling with great restaurants, casinos and bars.

Renaissance Center

We walked around the Greektown area, then went to the riverfront to get a closer view of the Renaissance Center. From there, we had a clear view of Windsor Canada on the other side of the river.

Hamtramck, an old Polish area, still has a few remnants of the good old neighbourhood. Polish sausage, pierogis, bigos, paczki and borsch can be found at Srodek’s.

We also went to The Painted Lady, a local bar in the same neighbourhood. This was recommended by a friend in Toronto who used to live in Detroit. It is a fun bar with inexpensive drinks and a lively crowd.

Attractions

  • Detroit Institute of Arts – The DIA, is among the top 10 museums in the country
  • Museum of Contemporary Art
  • Fox Theatre
  • Comerica Stadium – home of Detroit Tigers, the tiger sculptures on the stadium are worth seeing
  • Ford Piquette Avenue Plant / Model T Automotive Heritage Complex
  • Motown Museum 
  • Diamond Jack’s Riverboat Tours
  • Eastern Market – one of the country’s oldest farmer’s markets
  • Greektown – busy downtown hub with restaurants and pubs, and three casinos
  • Corktown – Detroit’s oldest neighborhood is an Irish-turned-hipster haven with lots of friendly pubs and dive bar hangouts.
  • Rivertown – The Detroit International RiverWalk connects bars, restaurants, an amphitheater and other public amenities.
  • Polish Art Center in Hamtramck
  • Belle Isle Park – zoological gardens and nature center
  • Campus Martius Park – Located in the heart of downtown, Campus Martius Park is Detroit’s official gathering place and award-winning signature public space.
Campus Martius Park
Comerica Park

Where to Stay?

We stayed at the Greektown Casino Hotel. I loved this hotel. Very pleasant staff. In fact, probably the nicest I’ve encountered and I’ve stayed at a lot of hotels. The city view of the hotel was amazing, large screen tv, the room nicely designed and very comfortable. The shower had really good water pressure. Room service was fast, the food was good, and they didn’t charge extra delivery fees. They add on an 18% service fee which is fair, but some hotels add the service fee plus a delivery fee making it too expensive to order in.

And the best part is that parking is free. Both valet and self park. Now that is a bonus! Hotels charge ridiculous fees for parking so it is rare to find a good place in a city that doesn’t charge.

Valet parking check out on a Sunday can take over half an hour because there are a lot of people checking out. Self parking is better. We highly recommend this hotel.

Other good hotels:

Where to Eat?

 

For more photos please go to Wonderland Photography.

Enjoy your trip to Detroit! It’s a very cool city.

 

Washington DC

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Washington DC perhaps not quite as magnificent as Rome, and not surrounded by 7 hills, but this is where the current world power lies. In Rome, Capitoline Hill was the symbolic center of the ancient city, both spiritually and politically. It was Thomas Jefferson who chose the name “Capitol” for the building that would house Congress, and the name of the hill that it would sit on. Did he have Rome in mind? I’m not sure, but certainly many concepts of the Republic endured.

The signing of the Residence Act on July 16, 1790, approved the creation of a capital district located along the Potomac River on the country’s East Coast. The U.S. Constitution provided for a federal district under the exclusive jurisdiction of the Congress and the District is therefore not a part of any state. The population is just under 700,000.

We loved the city, especially its ambience and fine dining, and will definitely go back.

The US Archive Building

The architecture in DC is impressive. Of course the government buildings are large and magnificient, but the apartment buildings are also beautifully designed and are all unique.  There are no cookie cutter glass towers here, or for that matter, any tall towers due to the building height restriction.

The city has many wide avenues giving it a spacious grand atmosphere and it is well planned. It has roundabouts to help ease traffic, and a grid system with logical street names that makes it easy to get around. Letters are east and west, and numbers are north to south. State streets are diagonal and often run into the traffic circles. There are some exceptions to this, but generally speaking, the system makes it easy to know where you are in the city. The beautiful design of the city and the unique homes impressed us both.

In front of the Reflecting Pond at The Mall

Getting there:  Reagan International airport is downtown, and Dulles airport is about 40 minutes outside of the city. We took Uber downtown from Dulles (about $50 USD) but there is a bus that goes to the subway, and the subway will get you to many locations in the city.

Weather: In the summer it is very hot and humid. Washington was built on a swamp so it feels tropical. The humidity is high so wear light clothing and bring water with you.

Key Attractions

Obviously, there are many attractions in DC, but the list below shows what we were most interested in. The Smithsonian museums are all free. We walked around the main sights, but due to the humidity, it was exhausting. I recommend taking a hop on/off tour.

  • Capitol Hill
  • White House
  • National Mall
  • Lincoln Memorial
  • Washington Monument
  • Jefferson Memorial
  • Vietnam & Korea veteran’s Memorials
  • Arlington Cemetery
  • Library of Congress
  • Smithsonian Museums
  • National Art Gallery
  • National Spy Museum
  • Potomac River Cruise
  • Georgetown

A few photos from key DC destinations:

Lincoln Memorial
Lincoln Memorial
Lincoln Memorial
Vietnam Veteran’s Memorial
Korean War Veteran’s Memorial
Korean War Memorial
Washington Monument
Potomac River
The White House
Jefferson Memorial – Wikipedia photo
Bridge to Virginia and Arlington Cemetery
My favourite, Capitol Hill
Herbert C. Hoover Building – when built in 1932 it was the largest office building in the world
Environmental Protection Agency headquarters

The National Spy Museum
Georgetown

We very much enjoyed spending time in historic Georgetown and will stay in this area the next time we visit DC. Located along the Potomac river, it has cobblestone streets, historic houses, many shops, cafes and restaurants. The Frye Shoe store on Wisconsin Ave has a good collection of shoes and boots, nice staff, and a decent sale from time to time.

Martin’s Tavern Georgetown
Georgetown along the waterfront

Where to Stay?

We stayed at the Kimpton Mason & Rook in a great neighbourhood. Known as Washington’s “it” zone, there are many bars and excellent restaurants that are walking distance. Whole Foods Market and Dolcezza coffee shop are one short block away, and the bustling 14th street with boutiques, bars and great food is right around the corner. The Black Cat music venue is on 14th st. about 6 blocks north. The only time you need to leave the neighbourhood is to see the key attractions, which are further downtown (about $7 by Uber or $2 cash by bus on 14th street).

Our room

This boutique hotel is very reasonably priced, has large rooms with large bathrooms, free wi-fi, a good sized flat screen TV, and free wine & beer in the lounge at cocktail hour. It also has a rooftop lounge with a small pool. The drawbacks are that it has no coffee machine, the elevators are painfully slow, there is no closet so the only place to hang your things is in a tiny space in the bathroom, and overall the hotel could use a bit of a scrubbing.

Bathroom at hotel

Next time we will try The Jefferson which is not too far from this neighbourhood on 16th street, or The Rosewood in Georgetown.

Where to Eat?

There are many great places to eat in Washington. This is a short selection of a few restaurants that we tried, plus some that were recommended by trusted sources, but that we did not get a chance to try.

Estadio is a Spanish restaurant on 14th street, near Logan Circle, with great tapas. Reasonably priced with many Portuguese wines by the glass. We thought the food here was superb.

Logan Tavern

Another good dining spot that we tried near Logan Circle is Logan Tavern on P street. They serve local farm fresh products at a fair price. Good food, pub style.

We had dinner at Le Diplomate (French restaurant) on 14th street because it was recommended in several blogs, however, for the price they can do better. It is a popular tourist spot and very busy, but this is not a foodie destination. The food was mediocre at best. We had the beef bourguignon, duck breast and salad verte, and for desert: creme brûlée and profiteroles. I sent the salad back because the vinaigrette tasted like cheap super market dressing – it was far too tart and made the salad inedible. The main meal was unimpressive. And the desert… well, I’ve had better at coffee shops. The creme brûlée was tasteless and left a waxy film on the roof of my mouth – truly one of the worst I have ever tried. The profiteroles, to which they added bananas (why?!) were not much better: low grade chocolate sauce, with tasteless vanilla ice cream and superfluous bananas. No, I do not recommend this restaurant. Expensive and mediocre.

The Partisan

The Partisan / Red Apron, located on D street near the major tourist attractions, provides good quality local and ethically sourced food in a casual setting. Good food, fair prices and nice ambiance.

Martin’s Tavern

We had a nice lunch in Georgetown at Martin’s Tavern – the oldest family owned restaurant in DC. And it has a lot of history! This is where Senator John F. Kennedy proposed to Miss Jacqueline Lee Bouvier on Wednesday, June 24, 1953 in the back booth. Martin’s Tavern also had the honor of serving every President from Harry S. Truman to George W. Bush when they were Senators, Governors and Congressmen.

Martin’s Tavern back booths – JFK proposed to Jacqueline here.

And this is where we discovered the Boulevardier with bourbon; our new favorite drink.

Martin’s Tavern

Other Recommended Restaurants

Enjoy Washington DC!

Southern Blues Road Trip

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 We travelled across  the Southern USA to experience authentic Blues, southern hospitality, great food and amazing scenery. It was a truly awesome trip!

Below are some photos and music clips from this great experience. For restaurant and hotel recommendations please go to the separate blogs for each city.

To skip to cities below click on the links:

New Orleans, Louisiana

Sculpture at Congo Square in Louis Armstrong Park

Congo Square in New Orleans – part of Louis Armstrong Park – can be considered the spot where Jazz and Blues originated. The gathering of West African slaves in Congo Square originated in the 1740’s during the French colonial period and continued during the Spanish era. The enslaved people congregated on Sundays at the square to sing, dance and drum in the authentic West African style. These African cultural expressions gradually developed into Mardi Gras and eventually New Orleans-style Jazz and Rhythm & Blues.

The park, on the edge of the French Quarter, is dedicated to Jazz and Blues. Louis Armstrong (1901 – 1971) was one of the most influential figures in Jazz. If you like Jazz and good music, you know who he is.

In New Orleans Blues, and Jazz can be found everywhere. In the air, on the streets and in the clubs. The musicians are all first rate. You have to be good to play here, even on the corner.

We have never seen a city like this. The atmosphere is unique. People walk around with drinks in their hand, enjoying the music and the hot, hot, humid weather. Everyone is friendly. We are not interested in going during Mardi Gras, but at any other time there is also plenty to do and see. November to May is peak season, so expect escalated costs.

Irvin Mayfield’s Jazz Playhouse is a well-established jazz venue. Irvin Mayfield, a Grammy and Billboard Award-winning artist with 25 albums to his credit, is acknowledged for bringing Jazz back to the French Quarter.

You can find Blues at The House of Blues and other venues in the French Quarter, but, for less mainstream Blues go to Frenchman Street, just outside of the French Quarter. Preservation Hall (live music since 1961) is probably the best known venue for great Jazz in the world. They do not serve alcohol, but you can bring your own. Go early because they have line ups and limited seating. With the heat and humidity, it can get strenuous standing for the length of a show.

A video from Apple Barrel Bar on Frenchmen Street. Unfortunately, I don’t have the name of the band, but they were great. Good job at covering Creedance Clearwater. We both really enjoyed them. There are many bars on Frenchman Street, and people are constantly moving from bar to bar as there are no covers. It is a very lively area, but stick to the main streets. Apparently, it can be dangerous off the main track.

Austin, Texas

Austin, state capital of Texas, and live music capital of the world, is another bastion of great music. Austin has more than 250 live music venues. Major music events include the South by Southwest Music, Film and Interactive conferences in March and the Austin City Limits Music Festival in October. Sixth Street is a busy hub for music venues, but South Congress is nicer and has better food.

The Continental Club on South Congress was a great experience. It is recognized as “the premiere live club in Austin since 1955”.

We saw Cash’d Out, an excellent Johnny Cash tribute band.

Austin is Music City. You can feel it at the airport as soon as you pick up your luggage. Where else are you going to see giant guitars on the carousel?

It is a mandatory stop on any Blues or Southern US music tour. Good music, nice people, and excellent food!  Very hot in the summer and still hot in September, but we will definitely go back. We both thought this is a city we could live in.

Mississippi

The Delta Blues, dominated by guitar and harmonica, is one of the earliest styles of Blues music. It originated in the Mississippi Delta, a region stretching from Memphis, Tennessee, in the North to Vicksburg, Mississippi, in the South, and from Helena, Arkansas, in the West to the Yazoo River in the East.

Bentonia

Jimmy Duck Holmes’ Blues Front Cafe in Bentona

Blue Front Cafe, opened in 1948 by Mr. and Mrs. Holmes in Bentonia Mississippi, it is now owned by their son, Jimmy Duck Holmes. The Blues Front Cafe is on the Delta Mississippi Blues trail. Go in, pick up a guitar, and jam with Jimmy and the gang. It is about 40 minutes north of Jackson along Route 49. There is a great documentary on the old Blues players called “I am the Blues”. http://iamthebluesmovie.com

Clarksdale

Two hours north of Bentonia on Route 49, Clarksdale, Mississippi, is an important spot on the Delta Blues trail and home to the Juke Joint festival each spring. The Delta Blues Museum is located here, which, unfortunately, we did not have time to visit. You might want to give it a shot – let us know what you think.

Clarksdale Mississippi

During the early 20th century, Clarksdale was nicknamed the, “Golden Buckle in the Cotton Belt.” It was a prosperous town, but much of that prosperity is gone. However, the resilient residents are keeping the music alive and making it an important destination on any Southern US trip. Tourism is its future.

Ground Zero Blues Club

Ground Zero Blues Club, owned by actor Morgan Freeman and the mayor of Clarksdale, Bill Luckett, is a popular venue in Clarksdale. Mr. Freeman plays guitar here occasionally.

Reds Blues Club

Red’s Blues Club, owned by Red Paden, is one of the more authentic Mississippi Delta juke joints. It is, literally, on the other side of the tracks, where you find the real deal. The guitar player above is Lucious Spiller, from Arkansas, one of the best guitarists both Jimmy and I have ever seen. He isn’t just playing the guitar, he IS the guitar – kind of like when good actors become the part instead of just playing a role.

A video clip of Lucious, sorry for the poor autofocus – but the music is clear!

Ike Turner was born in Clarksdale and began his career here. John Lee Hooker, Sam Cooke and Tennessee Williams all lived here at one time. We stayed at the Clark House, an excellent B&B a few blocks away from the clubs, but there is also this wild place to stay just outside of town called Shackup Inn – you can rent your own shack! And Ground Zero has hotel rooms above the bar.

Clarksdale Mississippi

The Crossroads are in Clarksdale at Highways 61 (the Blues Highway) and 49. This is where Robert Johnson reportedly sold his soul to the devil to be able to play the Blues…

Memphis, Tennessee

Bridge to Arkansas view from roof top of Madison hotel

Memphis is a short drive from Clarksdale (about 1.5 hours). It is famous for the influential strains of Blues, soul and Rock n Roll that originated there. Memphis is the birthplace of several American music genres, including Memphis Soul, Memphis Blues, Rock “sharecropper” Country music (in contrast to the “rhinestone” Country sound of Nashville), more recently, Memphis Rap, Buck and Crunk.

Legendary Bluesman Furry Lewis performs for neighbors, Aug. 13, 1976, near the Memphis – archive photo

Sun Studio

The legendary Sun Studio was opened by Rock n Roll pioneer Sam Phillips in Memphis, Tennessee, on January 3, 1950. Reputedly the first Rock single, Jackie Brenston and his Delta Cats’ “Rocket 88” was recorded there in 1951, with the song’s composer, Ike Turner, on keyboards, leading the studio to claim status as the birthplace of Rock n Roll.

The recording room

Blues, R&B, Country, and Rockabilly artists such as Johnny Cash, Elvis Presley, Carl Perkins, Roy Orbison, Howlin’ Wolf, BB King, Rufus Thomas, and Jerry Lee Lewis, recorded there until the studio outgrew its Union Avenue location. Sam is in the photo below.

Sam Phillips at the controls

In 1953, 18-year-old Elvis Presley came to the studio to pay for a short recording. Nothing came of it, but Sam Phillips thought he had potential. In July 1954, Sam invited a few musicians to play with Elvis in the hope that they’d come up with the sound he was looking for. Apparently, it wasn’t going anywhere until they were ready to go home, at which point Elvis picked up his guitar and started jumping around and singing a Blues song called “That’s All Right”. THIS was the sound that Sam was looking for.  He wanted a white guy that sounded like a black singer and he found it. Elvis recorded this song with “Blue Moon of Kentucky” on the B-side and history was made.

The mic in the photo is the original mic used by Elvis. Apparently, people like to lick it when they visit.

 

I had to check out the mic. And Jimmy bought Elvis glasses. The tour of Sun Studio is excellent. It’s about 40 minutes and you do need to go at a set time. We bought tickets and waited in the gift shop, which has beverages, cool t-shirts, plus other souvenirs. During the tour, they give you all the history in an interesting anecdotal format with the King’s old recordings playing in the background. Jimmy had goosebumps and was very moved.

We also drove through a neighbourhood where Elvis lived when the Presleys first moved to Memphis. A public housing development built in 1938 under President Franklin Roosevelt’s WPA, Lauderdale Courts was one of the first U.S. public housing projects. Apparently, the Courts were a pivotal place for Elvis. It was here that he practiced his guitar in the basement laundry room and played with other musicians who lived in the Courts.

Graceland

No trip to Memphis is complete without a visit to Graceland, the home of Elvis Presley. Built in 1939, the original owner of the land named the property after his daughter, Grace. Elvis purchased Graceland in 1957 for $102,500 as a farmland retreat outside of town. It is now owned by his daughter, Lisa Marie Presley. Graceland is the second most-visited house in America with over 650,000 visitors a year. Number one is the White House.

The lines are long to get over to the mansion. You start at the Graceland Tourist Center, where you buy a ticket and a place in line for the shuttle bus that takes you over to the house. I never thought I would be interested in visiting, but I’m glad I did. It gives you a glimpse not only into Elvis’ world, but into the era. Some of the rooms in the house have pretty cool 1970’s designs. And you can go on his airplane and jet!

Gibson Guitar Factory and Show Room

Gibson Memphis showroom

We also visited the Gibson Guitar Factory and showroom, however didn’t have time for the tour (they only have a few tours daily and the next one was too late). Jimmy and I both have Gibsons so it would have been nice to see how they are made (I have one made at this factory!). We will have to go back.

Beale Street

Famous, and historic, Beale Street in Memphis is home of the Blues, and where BB King got his start. Tons of bars with great music. I read that it is one of the best bar hop streets in America. I also heard that it can be dangerous, but there was a strong police presence and a lot of people on the street. This is one of the US cities where you can drink on the street, and carry your drinks from bar to bar if they are in a plastic cup.

The JP Soars band at the Rum Boogie bar. JP plays a cigar box guitar that he custom made with Humbucker pick ups. The band was fantastic! We watched them for most of the evening. They do have covers at many of the bars ($5-10), but they will reduce it at certain times and you can try negotiating. It is standard to tip the bands as well. They all have buckets near the stage where you drop some cash. Don’t be cheap, give them a decent tip!

There was a lot to see in Memphis. We both loved it. They also have great fine dining. Check out the Memphis blog for restaurant and food recommendations.

Nashville, Tennesse

Nashville, another of several locales claiming the title of Music City, is the capital of Tennessee and the capital of Country music. The live music area, The District, is on Broadway Street and some of the top clubs are: Roberts Western World, The Stage, Honkey Tonk Central, Legends Corner, Tootsies Orchid Lounge, and Bourbon Street Blues & Boogie Bar.  The bars are free, just tip the band. Jimmy liked Nashville, and so did I, but I prefered Memphis. Both are touristy, but Memphis just had more unique charm, IMHO.

 We only stayed one night and spent the evening on historic Broadway, primarily at Robert’s Western World – apparently the undisputed home of traditional Country music.

One of this Music City’s longest-running bands, and a Broadway St. legend, Don Kelley has led the Don Kelley Band since 1981. Kelley’s band helped turn Broadway around from its rundown days of peep shows and dilapidated clubs to a desirable tourist and local destination for music. They say that no trip to Nashville is complete without catching a set or two from this band. Their version of “Ghost Rider” is not to be missed!

Ryman Theatre aka Grand Ole Opry

The Ryman Auditorium, aka Grand Ole’ Opry, has a great display of costumes, guitars and memorabilia. They also have shows at the theatre. It is located downtown, but there is a new Grand Ole Opry that is in the suburbs, so don’t confuse the two.

 

The Ryman has a tour that starts with holograms telling you about the history of the theatre and the Grand Ole’ Opry. Very impressive!  Jimmy had goosebumps again. And you can get your photo taken on stage!

The Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum is a must see, not just for Country fans, but all music lovers. We definitely have to go back to Nashville and stay longer.

Savannah, Georgia 

Savannah is a beautiful coastal town on the Savannah River (South Carolina is on the other side). It is the oldest city in Georgia, established in 1733, and was a strategic port city during the Revolutionary and Civil Wars.

You can find street musicians along the Savannah river front. Savannah has annual music festivals and several live music venues in the historic district – Rock, Jazz, Blues, Country and more. Apparently, one of Savannah’s most respected live music venues is The Jinx at 127 W Congress Street. The Congress Street Social Club and the Warehouse Bar and Grill also have local and regional bands every week and draw steady crowds.

The Riverfront is a great place to hang out with a cold beverage (yes you can drink alcoholic beverages on the street here too) and listen to street musicians. And I found it interesting to watch the ships go by. The Savannah River is a shipping thruway since it’s right by the Atlantic, so you have some very large cargo ships going by.

This guy was just great. He was singing his heart out all afternoon. I didn’t write down his name, which is too bad. Very talented.

That’s it for our Blues journey in the Southern US. This is just a very cursory overview, but I hope the videos give you a taste of what it’s like. The musicians were among the best we have seen. There is a lot of talent down south. This was definitely one of our best trips! We had both wanted to see this part of the US for a long time and can honestly say it was even better than expected. It was our first time there, but definitely not the last.

For more photos go to Wonderland Photography.

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Mississippi River Plantations

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 Nottoway Plantation, near White Castle Louisiana, is one of the great plantations on the Mississippi River. We spent two nights at Nottoway in one of their lovely cottages and made a brief visit to Houmas House and Oak Alley plantations.

The White Room at Nottoway Plantation

Nottoway Plantation and Resort

Nottoway Plantation, an 1850’s sugarcane estate, is the South’s largest existing antebellum mansion. It’s about an hour and half drive west from New Orleans. Nottoway has survived the Civil War, a variety of owners, and years of decline and disrepair to become a favorite destination for visitors from all around the world.

Nottoway Plantation grounds

From their web site: The construction of Nottoway was commissioned by John Hampden Randolph, a very prestigious sugar planter, to be the ultimate showplace of his wealth; he wanted no expense spared and ordered that it include every extravagance and innovative feature possible. Nottoway would be home to John, his wife, Emily Jane Randolph, and their 11 children.

The Mississippi River in front of Nottoway Plantation

The Mississippi River, pictured above, is in front of the house with a road separating the two. A levy was added some years ago (pictured right) that took away land from the property. This is a nice spot to walk around. The southern skies are magnificent. It is VERY humid, and the weather constantly vacillates between rain and hot sun.

The main hall at Nottoway house
The dining room at Nottoway House

A brick of tea was highly valued and a symbol of wealth. It was kept under lock and key.
A cone of sugar, also highly valued
Tea time

They have tours of the home several times daily, and the resort is rented out for weddings and events. It is a fascinating tour and the guides wear period clothing.

Cottage rental on plantation grounds. These were staff houses in the past.

You can rent a room in the main house or one of the cottages. We rented a cottage with a little patio. The room has high ceilings, a large double sink bathroom, and a very large room with a flat screen TV. It is beautifully decorated and very comfortable.

The rates are reasonable (around $200 US depending on time of year). It was nice to just sit on the porch and sip a Mint Julep (ok well we only had beer, but the thought was there). They also have a swimming pool with a good deep end and a luxury spa.

The main house has magnificent oak trees and all kinds of tropical plants. For someone who has never been to a tropical climate, it was fascinating to see all the wonderful permutations of nature. Big bugs too, but with beautiful colors!

It is a great place to relax along the Mississippi River. The grounds are beautiful and it is very quiet, except, of course, for the tweeting birds and chirping insects, which are welcoming sounds.

The grounds at Nottoway Plantation

It’s very humid in the summer and fall. My camera lens was constantly fogging up. Tip:  Bring light clothing, cottons and silk. Jeans are too heavy.

The grounds at Nottoway Plantation

Where to eat? They have a cafe and a restaurant. We went to the restaurant for two breakfasts and two dinners as there is nothing else close by and nothing of quality until you get to the bigger cities.

The restaurant is elegant and formal. You can sit in the atrium or inside the main room. The food is Cajun/Creole fine dining and the staff are wonderful. Very friendly people.

An interesting fact is that the stairs on these old mansions are on either side of the main pillars because men and women walked up separate stairways. It was considered improper for a man to see a woman’s ankle (as they would while she walked up the stairs in front of the man).

This plantation is a source of income for many people in the region. It is well worth a visit to not only see a beautiful historic house and the nature in the area, but to help the local economy. Go see it, you’ll get a lot for your money. And it is a relaxing place to just hang out. It’s about an hour and half outside of New Orleans.

Houmas House

Houmas House

Houmas House is another sugar plantation on the Mississippi River. It is about an hour west of New Orleans and about half an hour east of Nottoway. The grounds are magnificent! There are 38 acres of lush greenery to explore right. The property has an Inn where you can stay, a large gift shop and a few restaurants. We did a brief tour of the grounds and had a snack in the casual restaurant, but didn’t have time to go inside the house. The tour guides are all dressed in period costume. In 1963, the Bette Davis film “Hush, Hush Sweet Charlotte” was shot on the property. The room in which Ms. Davis stayed while filming is preserved as part of today’s Houmas House tour.

The grounds at Houmas House Plantation

The sugar plantation was established in the late 1700s, with the current main house completed in 1840. It was named after the native Houma people, who originally occupied this area of Louisiana. The grand home was described during its antebellum heyday as “The Sugar Palace.”

The grounds at Houmas House Plantation

Houmas House began to build its sugar production and continued to increase its land holdings, which ultimately grew to 300,000 acres. I thought the most impressive feature was the land itself. The haunting trees with the hanging Spanish moss creates this surreal atmosphere. It is a fantastic spot for photography. Please visit the Houmas House website for more info.

Oak Alley

Oak Alley Plantation

Oak Alley is another stunning plantation on the river. It, too, has cottages for rent, a nice restaurant, and offers tours of the house. It is about an hour west of New Orleans. For vampire buffs, the movie “Interview with the Vampire” was partly filmed here. (Anne Rice lived in New Orleans.)

Oak Alley Plantation

The Bon Séjour plantation, as Oak Alley was originally named, was established to grow sugarcane by Valcour Aime when he purchased the land in 1830. Aime, known as the “King of Sugar,” was one of the wealthiest men in the South. The mansion was completed in 1839, the design is Greek Revival.

Oak Alley Plantation House Slave Huts

This plantation showcases the huts where the house slaves lived along with information about the people that lived there. The field slaves lived further away from the main house. One of the locals told us that some plantation owners would use incarcerated Irishmen to clear the swamps because the slaves were too valuable to risk being eaten by alligators.

The most noted slave who lived at Oak Alley Plantation was named Antoine. He was listed as “Antoine, 38, Creole Negro gardener/expert grafter of pecan trees,” with a value of $1,000 in the inventory of the estate. Antoine succeeded in producing a variety of pecan that could be cracked with one’s bare hands; the shell was so thin it was dubbed the “paper shell” pecan. It later won a prize at the 1876 Expo in Philadelphia. The pecan was once a considerable cash crop. Is that why Pecan pie is so famous in the south?

The map shows Oak Alley and the other plantations along the Mississippi River. As stated above, the plantations are a source of income for many people in the region, and are a fascinating glimpse into a bygone world. The nature in the area is magnificent for photography and relaxing walking tours. On another note, if you want to know more about the music of the south please visit the Southern Blues Road Trip blog.

For more photos please go to Wonderland Photography.

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Clarksdale Mississippi

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Visit Mississippi for a taste of the Blues! As the sign states, it is the birthplace of America’s music. Mississippi, the Magnolia state, has also been a defining force in the world of pottery, most notably in long-standing, family-owned pottery businesses like Shearwater and McCarty’s.

Mississippi is also home to the International Ballet Competition, and many colleges and universities house exceptional dance and performance programs.

We drove 3 hours from New Orleans to Jackson, state capital of  Mississippi, for lunch. Arrived in Jackson on a Saturday afternoon and it was desolate on the streets. Perhaps it was a bit too hot out.

The state capital building is beautiful and offers tours, but we had no time. We had a quick lunch, then continued to Bentonia which is about a half an hour north in the direction of Clarksdale. NOLA to Clarksdale is about 6 hours.

In Bentonia, we hoped to meet Jimmy Duck Holmes at his Blues cafe, but the cafe was closed. Rural Mississippi and Louisiana are very poor. It is unfortunate that there are so few economic prospects here. Hopefully an entrepreneur, or two, will see that the region could be economically viable with the right idea and investment. There is a great documentary on the old Blues players called “I am the Blues”. http://iamthebluesmovie.com

The above video contains music that was playing on our CD in the car by Lonnie Mack and Creedence Clearwater Revival.  

Clarksdale Mississippi is an important spot on the Delta Blues trail and home to the Juke Joint festival each spring. The Delta Blues museum is located here, as are The Crossroads at highway 61 and 49 where Robert Johnson sold his soul to the devil in order to play the Blues. During the early twentieth century, Clarksdale was nicknamed the “Golden Buckle in the Cotton Belt.” It was a prosperous town, but much of that prosperity is gone.

However, the resilient residents are keeping the music alive and making it an important destination on any Southern US trip. Tourism is its future.

 

The actor, Morgan Freeman is co-owner, along with Mayor Bill Luckett, of the Ground Zero Blues club. Mr. Freeman is also a musician and plays there from time to time. The Mayor was sitting at a table next to us when we were there. I’m assuming he is a regular patron.

Red’s Blues Club, owned by Red Paden, is one of the authentic Mississippi Delta juke joints. It is on the other side of the tracks; where you find the real deal.

A video clip of Lucious, sorry for the poor autofocus – but the music is clear! For more video clips of the musicians we saw, please go to the Southern Blues Road Trip blog.

Ike Turner is from Clarksdale and began his career here. John Lee Hooker, Sam Cooke and Tennessee Williams all lived here. Take a Walking Tour of Clarksdale’s historic district, which is the neighborhood where Tom ‘Tennessee’ Williams spent his childhood. During the annual Tennessee Williams Festival, porch plays are presented in this area with the audience sitting in lawn chairs.

The Crossroads at route 61 and 49 where Robert Johnson sold his soul to the devil to play the blues

Where to Stay?

We stayed at the Clark House, an excellent B&B in a historic home, a few blocks away from the clubs (which we both highly recommend), but there is also this wild place to stay just outside of town called Shackup Inn – you can rent a shack! And Ground Zero has hotel rooms above the bar.

Apparently Robert Plant stayed at this B&B as well. They have beautiful rooms in the house and a few smaller guest houses with a porch out back.

Where to Eat?

There are not too many choices. The Blues Alley Cafe is one option (however we didn’t try it) and you can get food at Ground Zero Blues Club. We ate at Ground Zero and it was pretty good – burger and fries.

For more photos go to Wonderland Photography.