We decided to spend New Year’s Eve in San Francisco at the last mintue. We stayed for one night only. The itinerary was simple: arrive around noon and go see the Sea Lions at Pier 39, get dinner and go see the fireworks near the Bay bridge. Transportation was free on New Year’s Eve from 8:00 pm, but too packed to be useful so we walked everywhere.
Let’s start with the Fireworks! The display was at the watefront on the Embarcadero between the Ferry Building and the SF Bay Bridge. I think there must have been at least one hundred thousand people there – it was packed tight so get there early if you want a good spot. We arrived at 10:30 pm and still found a fairly good spot where we shot this video. The countdown was at 11:59 pm and fireworks kicked off at midnight, lasting for about 20 minutes. It was pretty fabulous! There is nothing like fireworks to bring in the New Year!
I had hoped to find a restaurant with a view of the fireworks, but they were all booked. Here are my picks for restaurants with a view of the fireworks:
Waterbar: Regarded as one of the top seafood restaurants in San Francisco, Waterbar serves sustainable seafood, ethically sourced products and superbly prepared food. It is situated in a prime location on the Embarcadero, featuring excellent views of the fireworks. 399 Embarcadero
Epic Roadhouse: An excerpt from their site: “Chef Ulrich places an emphasis on his passion for excellence and dedicated advocacy of sustainably-sourced meat and seafood, along with organically-grown produce. Ulrich’s menu features modern interpretations of traditional steakhouse favorites, drawing inspiration from different preparations of meat from around the world.” 369 Embarcadaro
Americano: Located in the Hotel Vitale, Americano has a quality rustic Italian menu & panoramic views of the Bay Bridge from the lounge area. The hotel is a great place to stay if you can afford it. Book months in advance and you can get a deal. 8 Mission st.
Sens: Mediterranean cuisine. Executive Chef Michel Adams “infuses the exotic spices, lush flavors and traditional techniques indigenous to these lands with a modern sensibility and the freshest local ingredients”. They have an outdoor patio with great views of the show. 4 Embarcadero Center.
Where we stayed
We stayed at the Orchard Hotel near Union square at 665 Bush st. It’s a medium sized family run hotel with quality rooms and very nice staff. The hotel is very clean, has free wifi and breakfast is included. There are many hotels in San Francisco and it was hard to choose one that had a good location, good price, quality food, high standards and nicely designed rooms that are not a closet. This had all of that. I found many that were over $500 USD per night (and on New Year’s Eve even that was cheap) but we wanted to spend less yet not sacrifice quality (we paid $300 USD). We will definitely stay here again!
On New Year’s Eve it is hard to find a good restaurant without an advance reservation. There was one in particular I really wanted to try, Michelin rated Sons and Daughters, which was close to the hotel at 708 Bush St. but it was fully booked. I will save it for next time, but it is a must try for foodies. It is very small, so book in advance!
Instead we went to Cafe De La Presse, a French restaurant near by on Bush St. (352 Grant at corner of Bush). I love the decor, old world with wooden panels and that sense of a Parisian cafe. The food and wine was great! We had a prix fix which was very reasonable considering the quality of the food. I didn’t take photos because I was not thinking of blogging at the time, but trust me, it was very good. Jimmy and I were both impressed and happy that we found such a place at the last minute.
Other restaurants recommended by a trusted local friend:
Earlier in the day we went to see the Sea Lions at Pier 39. They were mysteriously absent for several years, but luckily they returned. Although not as many Sea Lions as in the past, they are still a joy to see.
There is a great shop in the pier complex called Alpaca Fashion – high quality Alpaca clothing. The animals are ethically raised in Peru and are not harmed when sheared. Unfortunately they don’t have a web site.
Alcatraz Island
A short video of San Francisco from a pervious trip… some places to check out: Lombard street – the most crooked street in the world, Union Square area, a ride on the historic cable car on Powell street, Golden Gate Park, Fisherman’s Wharf, Alcatraz (you need to book far in advance to get tickets), Golden Gate Bridge – on the other side of it, there is a visitor area where you can get good photos. Sausalito is just on the other side of the bridge with great cafes and restaurants, a marina and stunning views. And that is the route to Sonoma and Napa valleys.
All roads lead there. Rome, the capital of Italy, is the 3rd most visited city in the EU, after London and Paris, and receives an average of 7-10 million tourists a year. Founded in 753 BC, it is a sprawling, cosmopolitan city with nearly 3,000 years of globally influential art, architecture and culture on display. Its historic centre is listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Rome influenced Western civilization probably more than any other culture. It also has great shopping, museums, dining and is fun to just walk around and sit in one of the many piazzas.
This was part of our September 2015 one week trip to Italy that covered Venice and Padua, Florence and Rome. We started in Venice (two nights), then a day trip to Padua, Florence (two nights) and finally four nights in Rome. The train from Florence to Rome is only 1.5 hours.
Spanish Steps with view of Via Condotti
Safety Tip: there are a lot of scammers, beggars and thieves at the bus and train stations and in many of the town squares. Keep your wallets in a safe place and don’t engage with anyone. They try to sell flowers and various souvenirs and are very aggressive. One man, at the Spanish Steps, put flowers into my hand and then demanded payment from Jimmy. He wouldn’t let me hand them back to him, so I had no choice but to drop them on the ground and then he started yelling and cursing. Not pleasant. If they sense you are an easy target they will follow you and are unrelenting. Be firm when you say No.
It’s almost impossible to see all of the worthwhile places to visit in Rome, but here are some of the best places we went to:
The best way to get around is to walk or take the public transport. Rome is very hectic and parking is not easy to find, so leave the car behind. One health-related thing to note is that there is a lot of smog in Rome. The many Vespas and motor bikes spew a lot of smoke and it does make breathing a bit difficult for some.
We walked to most places, but also bought a Roma Pass for areas that were not walking distance. A Roma Pass is not only a bus/subway pass, but it also includes one or two museums (depending on the duration of the pass). We bought a three day pass and it included the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Villa Borghese. Excellent deal. You can try the link above or google it.
Colosseum and Roman Forum
The Colosseum and the Roman Forum count as one museum on the Roma Pass. If you have the pass you don’t wait in line, you just go right up to the entrance. If you don’t have a pass, it will take a long time to get a ticket. This is one of the most popular attractions in the world! Take the subway to Colosseo station.
The Colosseum, also known as the Flavian Amphitheatre, is an oval amphitheatre in the centre of Rome. Built of concrete and sand, it is the largest amphitheatre ever built. The Colosseum is situated just east of the Roman Forum. Construction started by Vespasian in 72 AD and was completed in AD 80 under his successor and heir, Titus. Further modifications were made during the reign of Domitian (81–96).These three emperors are known as the Flavian dynasty.
It was used for gladiator fights and hunting simulations involving ferocious and exotic animals. The capacity is estimated around 70,000 people; the shows became occasions to impress and control the people through astonishing displays and special effects. The underground theatrical system had hoists and trapdoors to magically present the animals and gladiators through openings in the stadium floor.
This picture shows that people would bring cooking materials and have a picnic/barbecue while watching the games. Precursor of tailgate parties?
The Roman Forum (Foro Romano) is a rectangular forum/plaza surrounded by the ruins of several important ancient government buildings at the center of the city of Rome. For centuries, it was the hub of Roman public life: the site of processions and elections and the venue for public speeches, commerce, criminal trials, and gladiatorial matches. The heart of ancient Rome, it has been called the most celebrated meeting place in the world.
Wandering through the Roman Forum and Colosseum, one can just imagine what it may have been like in the glory days of the powerful Roman Empire. From the Roman Forum you can either head south to Circus Maximus, or head north to Piazza Venezia and back to the main part of old town.
Circus Maximus and Baths of Caracalla
You can walk to Circus Maximus from the Roman Forum or take the subway from the Colosseum to the Via del Circo Massimo subway station. This is where the chariots raced! There isn’t too much to see now, but at least you know you were on the same spot.
The Baths of Caracalla were the city’s second largest Roman public baths, built between AD 212 and 217, during the reigns of emperors Septimius Severus and Caracalla. The building was heated by a hypocaust, a system of burning coal and wood underneath the ground to heat water provided by a dedicated aqueduct. The baths were free and open to the public and were originally ornamented with high quality sculptures.
The Caracalla bath complex of buildings was more of a leisure centre than just a series of baths. The “baths” were the second to have a public library within the complex, which consisted of a central frigidarium (cold room), a double pool tepidarium (medium) and a caldarium (hot room) as well as two palaestras (gyms where wrestling and boxing were practiced). The north end of the bath building contained a natatio or swimming pool. The natatio was roofless with bronze mirrors mounted overhead to direct sunlight into the pool area.
Piazza Venezia and Torre Argentina
Head back north toward the centre of the old town by streetcar to Piazza Venezia. This is the central hub of Rome, in which several thoroughfares intersect. The piazza is at the foot of the Capitoline Hill and next to Trajan’s Forum. The main artery, the Viale di Fori Imperiali begins here and leads past the Roman Forum to the Colosseum. The large white monument in the square is known as Altare della Patria “Altar of the Fatherland”, also known as the Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II (the first king of a unified Italy).
Largo de Torre Argentina is a cat sanctuary. It is home to 150-200 feline friends, sheltered amongst the oldest temples in Rome (400-300 BC). Seven days a week volunteers feed, clean and look after them. Italy has a no-kill law for homeless cats, and Rome has many of them. See if you can spot some of the cats in the photo below.
In addition to the remains of four different temples, Torre Argentina also contains part of the famous portico of Pompey, upon whose steps dictator Julius Caesar was betrayed and killed in 44 BCE.
Pantheon and Piazza Navona
The Pantheon is a former Roman temple commissioned by Marcus Agrippa during the reign of Augustus (27 BC – 14 AD). The present building was completed by the emperor Hadrian and probably dedicated about 126 AD.
It is one of the best-preserved of all Ancient Roman buildings. Today, it is a church and is visited by over 6 million people annually.
Piazza Navona is built on the site of the Stadium of Domitian, built in 1st century AD, and follows the form of the open space of the stadium. The ancient Romans went there to watch the games; hence it was known as Circus Agonalis (competition arena). The name eventually changed to Navona.
Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi
It has two beautiful fountains, restaurants around the perimeter, and is a great place for people watching. The plaza is right on the path to other key areas in the center of Rome. Campo dei Fiori is another plaza close by worth visiting. It has a popular local produce market selling fruit, vegetables and general goods, and some great restaurants.
By Wjh31 – Own work – http://lifeinmegapixels.com
Of course, Fontana di Trevi is a must see, but it was under renovation when we were there. The 2015 restoration included the installation of more than 100 LED lights to improve the nighttime illumination of the fountain. Built in 1762, it replaced an earlier, less dramatic fountain. It is the largest Baroque fountain in the city and one of the most famous fountains in the world.
Villa Borghese
There are many museums in Rome, but due to time limitations, we only went to one: Villa Borghese, former home of the noble Borghese family. You must book in advance because they only let in a limited amount of people. And you need to check your bags, including large purses. (They go into a safe locker so it should not be a problem.) The Villa is set in the Borghese gardens which sit near the top of the Spanish Steps.
Admission is strictly capped at only 360 persons every two hours (mandatory exit at the end of time slot). We used the Roma pass to get in, but had to call to reserve a time slot a few days in advance. Phone: +39 06 0608
The Borghese family was a very powerful family and their former home is a reflection of that. “The original 17th century Villa was a converted family vineyard and farmhouse belonging to Cardinal Scipione Borghese, nephew of Pope Paul V. The interior was sparsely decorated, in order to enhance the beauty of his art collection, which included works by: Raphael, Perugino, Parmigianinno, Reni, Guercino and Domenichino. Amid such artistic grandeur, most extraordinary of all, are masterworks by Caravaggio and Bernini, which span their entire artistic careers. In 1700, Scipione’s descendant, Marc Antonio Borghese renovated the Villa in Neoclassic design, installing fine, stucco and painted, decorative features in every room. Of special note are the frescoes on the entrance’s vaulted ceiling, which celebrates the birth of Marc Antonio’s firstborn son. His addition converted the Galleria Borghese itself into a work of art, which houses priceless works of art.” (RomeGuide.it)
David slaying Goliath by Bernini
The home is elaborate, and the works of art leave you in awe of what some humans can achieve. Take in as much as you can because you only have two hours.
Pauline Bonaparte as Venus Victrix by sculptor Antonio Canova
This statue and cushion are all made of marble and yet they look so realistic and soft, with creases and texture.
What a ceiling! Every detail is so immaculately crafted. And the colors are still so vivid!
Caravaggio painting of David with the head of Goliath. Jimmy loved this painting.
While we were there, a famous fashion designer had an exhibit, “Couture/Sculpture: Azzedine Alaïa in the History of Fashion”, that blended nicely with the works of art.
Spanish Steps
If you keep walking from Villa Borghese gardens you will end up at the top of the Spanish Steps. A popular spot, always very crowded. The steps lead down to Via Condotti which crosses with Via Corso, the high-end shopping districts.
Vatican City
Vatican City, a city-state surrounded by Rome, is the headquarters of the Roman Catholic Church and home to the Pope. Its Vatican Museums house ancient Roman sculptures such as the famed “Laocoön and His Sons”, as well as Renaissance frescoes in the Raphael Rooms and the Sistine Chapel, famous for Michelangelo’s ceiling. We arrived around 8:30 in the morning and it was pretty quiet.
We purchased tickets to the Sistine Chapel online at the Vatican ticket site. I recommend purchasing your tickets there since they are without the mark-up that tour services charge. The Vatican museums are closed on Sundays. Your ticket will be for a specific time. Get it in advance because the lines are extremely long for same-day purchase.
Important: The Sistine Chapel is located in the Apostolic Palace, the official residence of the Pope. It is not at the front entrance of the Vatican, so take a look at the map before going. We made the mistake of waiting in the security line for the Vatican and then realized it was the wrong one. We then had to run to the Sistine Chapel entrance to not miss our time slot.
As the Pope’s own chapel, the Sistine Chapel is the site of the principal papal ceremonies and is used by the Sacred College of Cardinals for their election of a new Pope when there is a vacancy. Its interior walls and ceiling are decorated with frescoes by many Renaissance masters. The most important artworks in the chapel are the 16th century frescoes by Michelangelo on the ceiling and on the west wall behind the altar. They are considered among the greatest achievements of Western painting. Jimmy and I both had goosebumps looking at this spectacular art.
The Creation of Adam by Michelangelo
They do not permit photos to be taken in the Sistine Chapel, so I snatched these from the internet. Clearly some people were allowed!
“Sobieski gives to the courier the message of victory for the Pope after the liberation of Vienna”
This painting, in the Vatican Gallery Sobieski Room, is one of my favourites since it depicts the victory of the Polish King John III Sobieski over the Turks after the siege of Vienna in 1683. Painted in 1883 by the Polish painter Jan Mateiko.
There is a lot to see at the Vatican. It is easily a full day. Take your time.
Trastevere Neighbourhood
Trastevere is a region of Rome, on the west bank of the Tiber, south of Vatican City. It is kind of an artsy, hipster area, with winding cobblestone streets, less touristy than the main parts of Rome, but still quite busy. The area is filled with pizzerias, cafes and excellent mom and pop trattorie. It’s a short walk to the Tiber river and Ponte Sisto bridge from Campo de’ Fiori.
From the Ponte Sisto bridge take Via del Moro towards Piazza di Santa Maria, (aka Our Lady in Trastevere) the main square and heart of this district. The Basilica is one of the oldest in Rome. Via del Moro is a main street with many shops and cafes. From here just wander around the narrow streets and soak in the atmosphere.
Where to Stay?
We stayed at Hotel Ponte Sisto (around $250 USD per night). Great location – a short walk to the Ponte Sisto bridge, gateway to Trastevere neighbourhood, and about a 10-minute walk to Campo de’ Fiori. Piazza Navona is about five minutes farther. The hotel is located on a narrow street that has a few stores, a gilato cafe and an amazing bakery cafe, Dolci Nonna Vincenza. They have a beautiful quiet courtyard where you can sit anytime. They serve a pretty good buffet breakfast in the courtyard, which is included in the room price, and they have a roof top lounge where you can see the Vatican in the distance. The room décor, however, was very standard and reminiscent of a chain hotel. It is not walking distance from the train station so take a taxi.
Hotel del Senato (starts at about $400 USD) is my choice for a hotel on the next visit. It is right next to the Pantheon and it would be amazing to wake up with that view. The hotel has great ratings and the rooms are more old world style which is nicer than the bland holiday inn look.
Hotel de Sole ($300 USD +) is another nice hotel, reasonably priced, near the Pantheon. If you want really high-end, Hotel Eden ($600 USD+) near Villa Borghese and the upscale part of Rome is a great choice. If you can afford $800 USD+ per night, the Rocco Forte Hotels are the best in my opinion. In Rome, it is Hotel de Russie. We stayed at a Rocco Forte hotel in Berlin (much lower cost) and it was perfection. They pay attention to the finest details. The room design is superior to most hotels I have stayed in.
Where to Eat?
Inside Tanto Ce Tempo
Tanto Ce Tempo is a great little gastropub with good food, friendly staff and reasonable prices. We had after dinner drinks outside on this little table which was on a small narrow street. Great vibe. I left my umbrella there and the waiter ran after us all the way to the next square to return it. It is close to Campo de Fiori
Another restaurant just off Campo de Fiori is Ditirambo. The food is outstanding. They have a few tables outside and of course inside, but it is not very big. You must book in advance. They are very busy. Piazza della Cancelleria 74/75, Phone: 39 066871626
Fortunato al Pantheon is near the Pantheon and is frequented by politicians. The menu is classic Italian with fresh quality food. The tagliolini with white truffles and fresh fungi porcini is delicious! Via del Pantheon 55, Phone: +39 06 679 2788
Sciapo Restaurant in Trastevere neighbourhood. The food and service is amazing. Carlo was our host and server. Very knowledgeable and friendly. The ricotta was made same day and among the best we have ever tried. I had the carbonara because it’s one of my favorite sauces and it did not disapoint. Also had the breaded beef tips which are a specialty there. Wine was excellent as was the desert. We both loved it and the price is very reasonable. Via Dei Genovesi 1, Phone: +39 06 581 6185
For something more high-end, Il Convivio Troiani is considered one of the best restaurants in Rome. Many of the traditional Roman favourites are given a new twist. It’s expensive, but for a special treat it might be worth it. Closed Sundays and not open for lunch. It is not too far from Piazza Navona. Vicolo dei Soldati 31, Phone: +39 06 686 9432
Hotel Eden, near the Spanish Steps and Villa Borghese, has a roof top restaurant and lounge with great views of Rome. It is expensive, but if you go for lunch, it is not too bad. We went to the lounge, Il Giardino more casual, and shared a salad with a pasta dish each and a glass of wine which came to about 100 EU. We usually have the salad with the meal and not before, but the waiter kept trying to get us to eat it first (after I firmly said no bring it with the meal, he gave up). In the past when I visited Italy and had dinner with a family, I noticed that they ate the salad after the main meal (supposedly better for digestion). Pasta is usually considered a first course, and the main meal is fish or meat.
Note: When you order a house salad, they bring the oil and balsamic to the table and you have to mix it yourself. I find this odd. Unless you know what you are doing you can mess it up. A chef should add just the right amount of dressing and not have customers do it.
I saved the best for last. This little bakery, Dolci Nonna Vincenza, right by our hotel (Ponte Sisto), has the best cannoli ever! Truly, you would be hard pressed to find better. The chocolate in the cannoli is medium dark and so smooth and creamy, not sugary, that it is a like a fine chocolate cream that you find in the best restaurants. The pastry is crisp with no hint of cooking oil or bad aftertaste. The other flavors were equally good, but the chocolate really blew me away. They also have other pastries, coffee and ice cream.
I’m sure there’s more, but this is not a book on Rome, just a sample of an exciting place to visit. And it helps to know its history.
Italy is probably my favorite place to visit. Great food, beautiful scenery and architecture, the best museums, the best shopping, and, of course, a fascinating history. The Italians have such a great sense of design and appreciation for life. It is evident in everything they do. On this trip, we flew to Venice and departed from Rome in September, 2015 (I find September is the best time to travel – good weather, less expensive than summer and not as busy). In between we went to Padua and Florence. This blog is about Florence. Venice & Padua , and Rome are in separate blogs. The itinerary was Venice two nights, Florence two nights and Rome four nights.
Florence, capital of Italy’s Tuscany region, is home to many masterpieces of Renaissance art and architecture. Florence was a centre of medieval European trade and finance and one of the wealthiest cities of the time and is considered the birthplace of the Renaissance. It is also an important city for fashion, ranked in the top 15 fashion capitals of the world, and you can find all the top designer stores here plus local artisan shops (which are even more interesting). It has some of the most important galleries and museums in the world, for example, Uffizi Gallery and the Academia Gallery, home to Michelangelo’s statue of David.
There is so much to see in Florence (Firenze) and the surrounding countryside. We only spent two nights which was not enough. Florence is not a large city (with a population just under 400,000) but the city is, without a doubt, world class. We took the train from Venice, which is about a two-hour ride.
Florence’s main historic center is relatively small so that it is easy to move around on foot. Using a car in Florence is not advisable, as there is little parking, many streets are pedestrian only and streets are often one-way. A fleet of small electric buses provide links between main key areas in the center.
Taxis cannot be flagged down on the streets in Italy. Taxis are stationed at taxi stands in most city squares, and at the airport, or they can be requested by phone. In Florence, the numbers for calling a taxi are: 055.4242 / 055.4390 / 055.4798 / 055.4499
If you want to go to a museum/gallery book in advance. The ticket lines are very long to get a ticket on the same day, so if you plan ahead, you will save yourself a lot of time.
One of the most famous galleries in the world, the Uffizi, has exceptional collections of paintings and ancient sculptures. The paintings date back to the 14th century and Renaissance period, with plenty of masterpieces such as by Giotto, Simone Martini, Piero della Francesca, Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo, Raffaello, Michelangelo, Caravaggio, as well as by pre-eminent German, Dutch and Flemish painters, decorating the halls.
Botticelli’s famous “Birth of Venus” is one of the gallery’s treasures. Created between 1482 – 1485, this painting has become a landmark of 15th century Italian art. “Venus, at the centre of the scene, is portrayed naked on a shell on the seashore, with her hair gently caressed by the winds and a shower of roses: elements that represent the birth of love and the spiritual beauty as a driving force of life.”
Of course, one does not go to Florence without seeing David, a masterpiece of Renaissance sculpture created between 1501 and 1504 by Michelangelo. David is located in the Academia Gallery. Again, buy tickets in advance, the lines are very long.
There is a replica of the statue of David in the main square, Piazza della Signoria. There are all kinds of events that occur there, so it’s a great place to hang out for a bit. And lots of people watching.
Ponte Vecchio is another well known attraction. It is a medieval stone arch bridge over the Arno River. The bridge has jewelry and souvenir shops and residences.
The most famous building in Florence is the main church, Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, or Il Duomo, as it is normally called. It was begun in 1296 in the Gothic style with the design of Arnolfo di Cambio and completed structurally in 1436 with the dome engineered by Filippo Brunelleschi who won the competition for its commission in 1418. The dome is egg-shaped and was made without scaffolding. The raising of this dome, the largest in the world in its time, was no easy feat. Visitors can climb to the top of the cupola.
Where to Stay?
We stayed at Hotel Spadai, which was exceptional AND reasonably priced (about $250 USD per night). It is rated as 4 star and it truly is 4 star or higher (typically in Europe a 4 star is more like a 3 or less in North America).
The rooms and bathrooms are all new and quite stunning. Each room has a Nespresso machine which actually does make decent coffee. Free wi-fi and they say the minibar is complimentary (we didn’t try it for some strange reason, so we can’t confirm). If breakfast is not included in your room, then pay for it. The breakfast buffet is excellent and worth every penny. It saves time to eat in the hotel before going out. This buffet is good quality and you can really fill up.
It is close to everything – Uffizi Gallery, Ponte Vecchio, Piazza Duomo, the shopping area, good restaurants… This is absolutely my first choice to stay in Florence. You can go to the roof top for a view of the city, but it is just a small viewing area and you cannot sit there.
If you want 5 star super luxury, then I always recommend the Rocco Forte hotels – in this case Hotel Savoy, or Relais Santa Croce. The rooms are designed better than in any hotels that I have ever been in. They have thought of every detail, like the right placement of a make up mirror, with good light and seating, comfortable lounging areas and beautiful fabrics. They even clean the TV remotes when doing the daily housekeeping! However, it will cost more. Where to Eat?
A great place to eat is the Mercato Centrale. Inside the market, vendors sell various primary ingredients of Tuscan cuisine at reasonable prices.
All operators are committed to a high standard of quality and all dishes prepared inside the Mercato are made using only the raw materials on sale inside. We had a few excellent pasta dishes. It is open from 10 am until midnight.
There are many great fine dinning restaurants in Florence, but this time we only ate at quality “faster food” places like Mercatto and local panini shops.
Two great panini shops to try: All’Antico Vinaio and La Prosciutteria Firenze, both off the Piazza della Signoria on Via de Neri. They were delicious. High-quality homemade products simply served on a wooden board or between two slices of bread. Add a glass of wine and you are set.
A few restaurants that were recommended by Italianfix.com (these are picks from locals and seasoned tourists).
1. L’Osteria di Giovanni Address: Via del Moro 22, Florence | Hours: 12:30pm-3pm; 7pm-11pm | Phone: 055 284897 | Spend: €30 – 45
2. Il Santo Bevitore Address: Via di Santo Spirito 64/66, Florence | Hours: 12:30pm-2:30pm; 19:30pm-23:30pm | Phone: 055 211264 | Spend: €15 – 50
3. Hostaria Il Desco Address: Via delle Terme 23/R | Hours: Closed on Monday at dinner | Phone: 055 294882 | Prices: €15 – 40
5. Trattoria La Casalinga Address: Via de Michelozzi 9/R | Hours: Monday-Saturday. 12 – 2:30; 7-10| Phone: 055 2679243 | Spend: €12-20
Shopping
When you are finished visiting galleries and restaurants, Florence is a great place for shopping. Between luxury boutiques with top name designers, fashion outlets, craftsmen and their workshops, to the open air markets you will find something that fits your budget. Many places in the center are open all day. Stores are generally open from Monday to Saturday.
Palazzo Pitti, or Pitti Palace, has fashion fairs and numerous shops, galleries and museums.
The main high end shopping area is Via de Tornabuoni. Once the home of wealthy merchants and Florentine Nobility, today you will find boutiques for Gucci, Prada, Pucci, Cartier and Bulgari etc. This area is growing and expanding, including Via della Vigna Nuova where you can find shops for Etrò, Lacoste and Monteblanc and Via del Parione where you will find lots of specialty stores, ateliers and workshops.
I found this store called Mywalit with purses and wallets that I really liked. Everything is colorful and unique.
Italy, what can one say about Italy…? Well, it is probably the most amazing place on the planet! I have been to Italy a few times, but have only seen a small part of it. I would love to see so much more! On this trip, we flew to Venice and departed from Rome in September, 2015. In between we went to Padua and Florence. Rome and Florence are in separate blogs. Padua is further below. The itinerary was Venice two nights, Florence two nights and Rome four nights.
I’m stating the obvious, but this truly is a very unique city. Founded in the 5th century and spread over 118 small islands, Venice became a major maritime power in the 10th century. The city is an extraordinary architectural masterpiece in which even the smallest building contains works by some of the world’s greatest artists such as Giorgione, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and others.
The State of Venice is considered to have been the first real international financial center, which gradually emerged in the 9th century, to its peak in the 14th century.This made Venice a wealthy city throughout most of its history.
It is also known for its several important artistic movements, especially the Renaissance period. After the Napoleonic Wars and the Congress of Vienna, the Republic was annexed by the Austrian Empire, until it became part of the Kingdom of Italy in 1866. Venice has played an important role in the history of symphonic and operatic music, and it is the birthplace of Antonio Vivaldi. In 2016 Venice was ranked the most beautiful city in the world.
There is a lot to do in Venice. San Marco (St. Marks Square), Doge Palace, Bridge of Sighs, Rialto Bridge, Teatro La Fenice (the famous opera house), Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute, and so much more. It is best to just walk around and let yourself get lost. The best time to visit is September to November when there are fewer tourists and the weather is perfect. Carnival is in February and the annual film festival is the last week of August and first week of September. The Art Biennale (as the name indicates, every other year) has various events at different times. We were there mid September and it was still pretty busy, but if you stay off the main streets, like Strada Nuova, and away from the Grand Canal then it is pretty quiet.
Getting there from the Venice Marco Polo airport: we took the bus (€8 per person) to Piazzale Roma, the main vehicle drop off point, and then the ACTV vaporetto (water bus) along the Grand Canal (€7,50 per person or you can buy a day pass for €20) to the closest stop near the hotel. Then we walked the rest of the way, which was over several bridges and small cobblestoned roads. Our luggage wheels took a beating. The water taxi is just too expensive. The fare between Marco Polo Airport and a hotel in central Venice averages €110 or more, depending on location. A trip within the historic center can easily cost €40 to €70. A car taxi from the airport to Piazzale Roma is about €20.
Safety Tip: there are a lot of scammers, beggars and thieves at the bus and train stations. Keep your wallets in a safe place and don’t engage with anyone.
Where to Stay?
We stayed at Hotel Ca’ Vendramin di Santa Fosca in the Cannaregio district. There are so many nice places to stay in Venice, but it was very hard to find something reasonably priced. If you don’t want to spend a lot on a water taxi to get there, or drag your suitcases a distance, stay somewhere close to a vaporetto stop.
This hotel was fine and not too expensive (around $250 USD), but I would pick something else next time. It was the residence of nobleman Gabriele Vendramin (patron of famous painters, including Veneto, Giorgione and Tiziano) and has original frescoes, fine fabric and Murano glass chandeliers. Breakfast was good, too, but I didn’t like the decor of the room we had (too modern and too small, although they do have much nicer rooms). My hairdryer blew the power circuit, and it was a bit too far from the vaporetto.
If you are pressed for time and want to see as many of the big tourist sights as possible, it’s a good idea to concentrate your hotel search in the San Marco area. If it’s important to be near the railway station or the bus stops at Piazzale Roma, look for a hotel in south-western Cannaregio, north Dorsoduro or the eastern corners of Santa Croce or San Polo. For bars and nightlife Dorsoduro and the area around the Rialto are busiest. In northern Cannaregio and eastern Castello, you’ll find quieter residential areas for a more authentic Venetian stay.
We recommend staying in the Cannaregio area because it is not that far from the train station (depending on where you stay), there are a few vaporetto stations and it is not as touristy as some of the other areas. It also has great local shops with food and artifacts. When I was there in 1982 I stayed in the San Polo area with a resident Venetian writer, a family friend. She was very generous to let me stay there for free.
The six central districts are:
San Marco – the tourist hot-spot.
Cannaregio – mostly quiet residential area.
Castello – stretches from the tourist center to the public gardens in the east.
Dorsoduro – student area and the artsy part of Venice.
San Polo – residential with some of the top restaurants and the big fish market.
Santa Croce – the bus terminal is in this area, but it also has quiet spots
Photos for use by Caʻ Sagredo Hotel and Lorenza Lain
My recommendation for a hotel in Cannaregio is Ca’ Sagredo. It is close to the Ca’ D’Oro vaparetto station, has great views of the Grand Canal and has some really beautiful rooms all at a reasonable price (for Venice). This is a great location because you can go deeper into the residential area, or wander into the San Marco touristy area within a 15-20 minute walk. There is a grocery store on Strada Nuova which is a short walk. And San Polo is just across the Grand Canal where you can take a Traghetto (gondola ferry) for €2. There are several Traghetto lines that cross the Grand Canal, most operated by families. Hotel L’Orologio also gets good reviews and looks pretty nice.
A good way to see Venice is to just take the vaporetto to the end of the line to Lido or San Marco. The water bus goes slowly, allowing you to take video and photos. It’s a lot cheaper than a gondola! The city of Venice sets official rates for gondola rides, which started at €80 for 40 minutes the last time we checked. Additional 20-minute increments are €40. After 7 p.m., the base rate climbs to €100, with €50 for an additional 20 minutes. Up to six people can share a gondola. We didn’t go for a gondola ride, we just walked a lot.
San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) is very busy and the lines are long for tourist attractions. We went on a tour of the Doge Palace, but bought tickets in advance.
We took the Secret Tour, which covers the rooms and chambers of the Venetian administration. It also takes you through the jails in the basement which were often flooded, but the inmates still had to live there in several feet of water.
An interesting part of their judiciary system was that a citizen could make a complaint about another citizen by placing a grievance in the complaint box. However, if the complaint proved to be false, then the complainer would receive the sentence. So, if you accused someone of a serious crime, you may end up getting the death penalty yourself.
The most extraordinary of Venetian monuments is undoubtedly the Basilica di San Marco. It was built over several centuries, frequently transformed and enriched with treasures often from the Far East. Its architecture, a mixture of Byzantine, Roman and Venetian, is the work of artists and craftsmen from all over the world. We didn’t get a chance to go in because the line was too long. As always, it’s best to buy a ticket in advance.
There are many stores near San Marco square – popular designer stores and small artisan shops. If you want an amazing Venetian mask, take a look at some of the small shops that make hand made masks. They have some fantastic masks that are works of art. Don’t buy the cheap, Made in China masks – they are ugly, will not last, and do not help the local artists. The hand made creations are so stunning, you really have to see them.
Where to Eat?
I’ve heard people say that Venice does not have good food, but that is far from true. Yes, there are many tourist restaurants that are not good, but Venice is an epicenter of fine dining. It has the best fresh food, especially sea food, prepared to perfection. You just have to know where NOT to go. There are many family run restaurants that will make any foodie drool.
Tips for dining in Venice:
Do not eat at a restaurant along the main strip where all the tourists hang out.
If the waiter or host, is standing outside trying to bring customers in, don’t go. A good restaurant never has to coax people to come in.
If the restaurant displays pictures of their food, keep walking.
If the restaurant has a checkered table cloth it usually is not one of the better places.
If it is half empty during peak hours, it’s empty for a reason.
TripAdvisor is not the best for determining a good restaurant. In my experience, I found restaurants noted as good by the reviewers turned out to be mediocre or bad. If you are a foodie, trust the foodie blogs instead.
In Italy restaurants often have two seatings for dinner: around 5-7 pm and after 9pm. Most restaurants are closed between lunch and dinner so if you want to eat in between, it is snacks and light dining at a Cantina.
Make a reservation! Good restaurants fill up fast. You won’t get in without a reservation unless it’s the late night seating.
One of the best places for a panini and a glass of wine is Francesco’s La Cantina on Cannaregio 3689 on Strada Nuova. Platters of the freshest fish, cured meats, select cheeses, sumptuous salads and fine wines for a very reasonable price.
But don’t rush the owner, Francesco! It takes time to prepare a great sandwich or platter. We ate here several times. Jimmy and I both think this is the best panini ever. Simple top quality cured meats, fresh bread and nothing else. Top that off with a good glass of wine, and Wow! Under €10 for the above panini and glass of wine.
Ostaria da Riobais located in a quiet area of the Cannaregio district.We liked this restaurant so much we went back twice. Great food, very nice staff.
Get a table on the canal for a really great dining experience. They offer dishes of fish and meat using only fresh seasonal ingredients; the fish is chosen based on the availability at the fish market every morning. Phone: 00 39 348 769 6480
Other recommended restaurants:
Osteria Alle Testiere – A well known seafood restaurant with fresh fish from the daily market. €50 plus per person range. Phone: 00 39 041 522 7220
La Zucca located in the Santa Croce district, serves many innovative Venetian dishes at affordable prices. Phone: 00 39 041 52 41 570
Antiche Carampane located in San Polo district, near Rialto Bridge, is difficult to find but worth the search. Fantastic fresh seafood and other dishes in a family run restaurant. €60 range per person. Tables outside and inside.
Corte Sconta, located in the residential lanes of eastern Castello, has great appetizers and mains. They have tables in a vine covered courtyard. Around €60 per person. Phone: 00 39 041 522 7024
Osteria di Santa Marina is described as creative Venetian cuisine with a lot of seafood. Quality food and good service. Tables inside and out. Around €70 per person. Phone: 00 39 041 528 5239
Quadri is very high end and very expensive. Located in San Marco Square it is one of the most famous restaurants in Venice. Tasting menus €185 to €225: otherwise around €180. They have a cheaper bistro in the basement called ABC Quadrie for about €60 pp. Phone: 00 39 041 522 2105
Al Gato Nero on the island of Burano is inexpensive and very good. Around €60. Phone: 00 39 041 730 120
Private boats take you to Hotel Cipriani located on Giudecca Island
The famous Harry’s Bar in Venice, opened by Giuseppe Cipriani in 1931 is located right on the waterfront of San Marco area. They invented both the Bellini and carpaccio. The drink is a mixture of white peach juice and sparkling prosecco, named after the 15th-century Venetian painter Giovanni Bellini. Carpaccio is a plate of marinated trimmed sirloin sliced wafer thin and dressed with a Jackson Pollock spray of mayonnaise mixed with lemon juice. It was named after an Italian painter, Vittore Carpaccio. Hotel Cipriani is an ultra luxurious hotel located on La Guidecca, an island a few minutes from San Marco by private boat.
We both definitely want to go back to Venice and spend more time. There is no other city quite like this. We both loved roaming the residential streets and the quieter areas of the city.
Padua
Padua is a 40 minute train ride from Venice. They have trains going in that direction about every 15 minutes. Our main reason for going was to see the Scrovegni Chapel. The Chapel is known for the frescoes by Giotto in 1303-1305. It is one of the most important masterpieces in Western Art. He is generally considered the first in a line of great artists who contributed to the Renaissance. Giotto is known as making a decisive break with the prevalent Byzantine style and as initiating “the great art of painting as we know it today, introducing the technique of drawing accurately from life, which had been neglected for more than two hundred years.” He inspired Michelangelo and many others.
To ensure pollutants do not enter the Chapel and damage the frescoes, visitors must go into a room for about 20 minutes where they watch a video. On-line reservations must be made at least 24 hours in advance. It is not possible to reserve for the same day. They only let in about 25 people per viewing. If you are into art, Padua’s Scrovegni Chapel should be a definite destination. Note: You must to check your bags, including large purses, and there are no exceptions. They do go into a safe locker, so it should not be a problem.
Padua is also known for the the vast 13th-century Basilica of St. Anthony and one of the world’s oldest universities, the University of Padua, established in 1222.
Venice is truly unique. There are not many cities that are vastly different from others. This and New Orleans come to mind. I would love to visit both again and explore deeper.
Belfast, the capital of Northern Ireland, is a remarkable place to visit. It is a fine dinning hot spot in the UK and has a beautiful countryside that is a short distance from urban centers. Jimmy was born here so that’s one of the key reasons we went, but also because his father moved back to the area (from Canada) and we wanted to visit him. We made four trips there, between 2012 and 2015, that included excursions to Lisburn, Bangor, and the North Coast.
Our most recent trip was to attend Jimmy’s dad’s funeral in Bangor. A sad occasion, but we are both glad that we had a chance to spend time with him in the years before he died to build pleasant new memories, and bring closure to old painful memories. In his late 80’s he still had a dry wit and was always making jokes. It was great to meet him and it’s easy to see the similarities between Jimmy and his dad. For us, Belfast and Bangor will forever be imprinted with the aura of his dad. We will visit again.
The metropolitan area of Belfast has a population of about 1.4 million, with about 550,000 in the city itself. It has become a foodie haven and has some great tourist attractions, like the Titanic Museum. And it certainly has a history. It was not much of a tourist destination in the past because of “The Troubles”. I won’t go into the politics, but I recall in the 1970’s two war zones that stuck in my mind: Beirut and Belfast. Neither were places I thought I would ever visit. However, because of Jimmy, Belfast has become one of my favourite destinations. The city is, thankfully, a calm and peaceful place these days. The people are reserved, but pleasant with a witty sense of humour, and the food is outstanding.
Belfast City HallBelfast City Hall
A bit of history:
Belfast was a center of the Irish linen, tobacco-processing, rope-making and shipbuilding industries: in the early 20th century, Harland and Wolff, which built the RMS Titanic, was the world’s largest and most productive shipyard. Belfast played a key role in the Industrial Revolution, and was a global industrial center until the latter half of the 20th century. It has sustained a major aerospace and missiles industry since the mid 1930s. Industrialization and the inward migration it brought made Belfast Ireland’s biggest city at the beginning of the 20th century. Today, Belfast remains a center for industry, as well as the arts, higher education, business, and law, and is the economic engine of Northern Ireland.
Harland and Wolff – where the Titanic was builtDowntown Belfast
Ulster Folk and Transport Museum – see how people lived in the past: historic working class homes recreated with all the furniture, utensils and artifacts. Highly recommended.
Titanic Museum
The Titanic Museum is at the top of the list of “must see” attractions. It is a fascinating display not only of the history and building of the Titanic, but also of worker life in industrial Belfast. There is a lot to see so plan on at least half a day. They use holograms and video to show you the living quarters, dinning rooms and engine rooms.
Excuse the poor quality of the video, but it still allows you to see the ship from its bowels to the top first class area.
And there is a “ride”, like a roller coaster, that takes you through a display of the ship building process. It was interesting to see the Riveters; whose only job was to install rivets into the steel – they had left handed and right handed Riveters working side by side for efficiency’s sake.
First class cabinThird class cabinThe grand staircase
A tour of the city is a good way to see, and hear, the history of Belfast and the key locations during The Troubles. The Peace Wall was a surprise to me. I had no idea the city had this long divider between Catholic (most of whom are nationalists who self-identify as Irish) and Protestants (most of whom are Unionists who self-identify as British). During the time of the Troubles, they would shut the gates on the weekends and at night (or during strife) to minimize the violence between the two groups.
Belfast Peace WallBelfast Peace WallBelfast Peace WallThe Crown Bar across the street from the Europa HotelEuropa Hotel – the most bombed hotel during The Troubles, having suffered 36 attacksOpera HouseCathedral QuarterDowntown BelfastCustoms House
Lagan River – Titanic Museum in background and H&WStormont Parliament Building
Where to Stay?
There are several great hotel options in Belfast. The best place to stay is downtown so you are walking distance to most attractions. The city core is not large and easy for strolling around.
My favorite hotel is The Merchant, a former bank. I love the old world style. It takes you back to another era. It is a 5 star luxury hotel with gorgeous interiors.
On one visit we stayed at the Malmaison which is 4 star and reasonably priced, but has that old world charm and very friendly staff. Conveniently located near the Victoria Square shopping center, Cathedral Quarter and waterfront.
Malmaison lounge
The lounge is very cosy, has a nice ambiance and great snacks.
We stayed at the Fitzwilliam Hotel twice. It is a modern 5 star hotel, on Victoria street close to The Crown Bar, Opera House and Europa Hotel. It is also within walking distance to most attractions. Victoria Square and the shopping area is further than from Malmaison, but it isn’t too far (about 15-20 minute walk).
Fitzwilliam hotel
The rooms are minimalist, but well designed and comfortable. The bathrooms are stunning!
Where to Eat?
Now for the best part: Belfast is a foodie mecca! It has some of the best restaurants in the world, along with annual food festivals. The produce is super fresh and the menus are unique. Top chefs are making Belfast their home, and bringing the most mouth watering concoctions to the city. We were both very impressed with the food in Belfast. Good food is all about sourcing, and in Ireland the farms are close by. Animals are raised in a natural environment with no hormones and stress. Even the corner store had egg salad sandwiches using free range eggs! Here are a few restaurants that we tried:
The room itself is worth the price of the meal. It is elaborate and unique. The food and service was outstanding. We had lunch in the Great Room on a few occasions and loved it. It is one of those places that you just have to stop by on every visit. And we do.
Michael Deane, Northern Ireland’s longest-running Michelin-starred chef, has multiple restaurants and bistros in Belfast. His flagship restaurant, EIPIC, currently has a Michelin star (he obtained his first star in 1997). We ate at Deanes Meat Locker and Deanes Deli Bistro and can confirm the food is superb. I once had a chat with Michael Deane himself, and it turns out that he worked at The Savoy in London at the same time as a well-known Toronto chef, Michael Bonacini (whom I worked with at the Windsor Arms in Toronto). Small world. Nice man and great chef. Deane’s restaurants are an essential stop when visiting Belfast.
James Street South was awarded a prestigious Michelin ‘Bib Gourmand’, which recognizes establishments offering “good food at affordable prices”.
We ate here a few times. There is a casual restaurant and a more formal dining room. In the main dining room we had the tasting menu with wine pairing, which is probably the best way to go if you want to experience what chef Niall McKenna can do. The lunch menu in the casual restaurant is very reasonably priced with high quality food.
Since it was opened by Stephen Toman, former head chef at James Street South, and Alain Kerloc’h, the former manager of Deanes, locals have packed it every night. Today, it, too, has a a Michelin star.
It is a tiny restaurant, so reservations are necessary. We went there for lunch and had a meal cooked to perfection, albeit quite small. We both thought the Creme Brûlée was the best we have ever tried. That rich Irish cream takes it to another level.
Located at the George Market, this is a great little spot for delicious fish & chips. Casual, inexpensive, and very tasty fast food.
Belfast has come along way since Jimmy’s youth – both in terms of fine dining (when everything was fried or boiled to death) and a cultural and architectural resurrection. It is now on the map as a stimulating and fun travel destination.
Northern Ireland, part of the UK, has a beautiful countryside, rugged northern coast and wonderful cities such as Belfast and Bangor. As we flew over the Emerald Isle, I was surprised at how truly verdant it is. Rolling lush hills glowing in the most beautiful shades of emerald green with little beige dots that turned out to be sheep. The focus of this blog is the North Coast and Bangor, but we also included a bit of info on the Ulster Folk Museum. We have a separate blog focusing just on Belfast.
We visited the North Coast in 2013 and Bangor in 2015. This is Jimmy’s homeland. He was born in Belfast, but his family moved to Canada when he was eight. His father moved back and lived in Bangor until his passing at end of 2015.
North Coast
Lush green hills of Northern Ireland
We took a tour bus to the North Coast from Belfast. The coast is not far from Belfast, but it is an all-day excursion.
Itinerary:
Depart Belfast at 9:15am
Carrickfergus Castle (photo opportunity)
Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge (fee to cross payable to National Trust)
Bushmills Whiskey Distillery Visitor Centre
Giants Causeway Site and Visitor Centre (stay approx. 1 hour 45 minutes)
Dunluce Castle (photo opportunity)
Drive through Cushendall, Glenariff and Cushendun villages
Return to Belfast at approximately 6:30pm
I cannot begin to tell you just how beautiful this part of Ireland is. The pastoral fields, interspersed with swaths of lavender, the North Sea, the cliffs, the animals…it is nature at its best.
One of the most unique sights in the world is The Giant’s Causeway. It is an area of about 40,000 interlocking basalt columns, the result of an ancient volcanic eruption.It is located in County Antrim close to the town of Bushmills.
The Giant’s Causeway was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1986, and a national nature reserve in 1987 by the Department of the Environment for Northern Ireland. In a 2005 poll of “Radio Times” readers, the Giant’s Causeway was named as the fourth greatest natural wonder in the United Kingdom. It is a really cool destination for photography.
Jimmy used to come here as a boy with his family. They could only dip their feet into the water, which was ice cold year-round. He remembered how as a child, he really did believe this was the land of the Giants.
The Nook pub near Giant’s Causeway visitor center
Food is available at the Giant’s Causeway visitor center, or at this nearby charming country pub, The Nook. If you stroll around the area, you will see some cows lounging on the grass.
There are several cottages and B&Bs in the area if you decide to spend more time there.
Dunluce Castle a now-ruined iconic medieval castle, bears witness to a long and tumultuous history. The earliest written record of the castle was in 1513. In the 17th century Dunluce served as the seat of the Earl of Antrim. Since that time, the castle has deteriorated and parts were scavenged to serve as materials for nearby buildings. It is another great destination for a photo or video shoot.
The trip to the North Coast would not be complete without stopping in at Bushmills Distillery. They have tours of the Distillery and, of course, a tasting room. Our favorite whiskies are Irish and American Bourbon (and we didn’t influence each other, we both came to that conclusion separately). It was quite a treat to try 16 and 21-year-old fine Irish whiskey. Wow. Smoother than cognac.
This video below provides an overview of the fun we had visiting the North Coast.
Bangor
Our trip to Bangor was for a sad occasion; it was to attend the funeral of Jimmy’s dad in December, 2015. This quiet little sea side town was his father’s home for his last 20 years.
It is a picturesque town with a rich history. It functions as a commuter town for the Greater Belfast area. Tourism is important to the local economy, particularly in the summer months, and plans are being made for the redevelopment of the seafront.
The laying of the railway in 1865 meant that inexpensive travel from Belfast was possible, and working-class people could afford for the first time to holiday in the town. Bangor soon became a fashionable resort for Victorian holidaymakers, as well as a desirable home to the wealthy. Many of the beautiful houses overlooking Bangor Bay date from this period.
Bangor did have a decline in tourism once foreign travel became more affordable, but the city is planning on revamping the coastal town to attract more tourists. We both thought the town was charming and can see how this could be good attraction again.
Where to Eat?
Bangor has a few high-quality restaurants, including Michelin-rated, The Boathouse. The restaurant was closed for a while, but at the time of this writing (2017) it is listed as open again. The meal we had was superb. The food was well sourced and cooked perfectly.
We also ate at The Salty Dog Hotel and Bistro, which is close to the boat house by the bay. Reasonably priced and tasty, but not fine dining. The pasta and mussels were very good. The staff was extremely pleasant, but it seems that it would be difficult to find people in Northern Ireland that are not pleasant. They are friendly and helpful wherever you go.
Where to Stay?
We stayed at Shelleven House, a 4-star Victorian B&B very close to the waterfront. The host used to work at Culloden Estate and Spa, a highly respected 5-star resort between Belfast and Bangor, so he is well versed in quality food and service. The breakfast was excellent quality, well prepared and delicious. Note: As of April, 2016 the B&B is under new ownership, but based on the website, it seems that the new owners will provide the same quality of service.
View from the room
Ulster Folk and Transport Museum
The Ulster Folk and Transport Museum is half way between Bangor and Belfast. It is a fascinating place that shows how people lived at various periods in Northern Ireland using replicas of the actual homes and their interiors. The museum ranks among Ireland’s foremost tourist attractions.
The Folk Museum houses a variety of old buildings and dwellings which have been collected from various parts of Ireland and rebuilt in the grounds, brick by brick.
170 acres are devoted to illustrating the rural way of life in the early 20th century. Visitors can stroll through a recreation of the period’s countryside complete with farms, cottages, crops, livestock, and visit a typical Ulster town of the time featuring shops, the blacksmith and other artisan shops, churches, a bar, a movie theatre, town homes and more.
Movie TheatrePhotography Studio
Jimmy came here on a school trip in his youth and never forgot the impression it made on him. It really is fascinating to see how people lived at different times. I, too, love seeing the recreations. It reminds us how easy our life is now.
The Museum has a tea room where you can purchase hot and cold meals, and there is a wonderful gift shop that sells Shetland Wool scarves for only £10-20.
The Transport Museum houses the largest railway collection Ireland.
Did you know the airplane ejection seat was invented in Northern Ireland? It was invented by engineer James Martin, who was born in Crossgar, County Down.
Jimmy’s father worked at The Short Brothers airplane manufacturing plant in Belfast. The airplane above is one of the first prototypes of VTOL (Vertical Take-Off and Landing) made by Short Brothers. Jimmy thinks his father may have worked on this very one. Northern Ireland has an extensive and often unappreciated role in aviation history. Today, Northern Ireland is home to four of the top 100 aerospace and defence suppliers in the world.
The museum also has a collection of cars and buses, plus artifacts from the past such as these cool items that some of us may remember from our youth. We both highly recommend visiting this museum if you are in the Belfast area. You can easily spend a day here – we rushed through in half a day and didn’t see everything.
We both first went to New York City in the 1970’s when it was wild and dangerous. I’ve been there several times since and have witnessed the changes over the years. Now it is a sanitized, upscale version of what it once was. CBGBs, Studio 54, the less than respectable Times Square area, the Hare Krishnas in Greenwich Village, the Yippies in Central Park, the gangs, and all the wild places are gone. Many of the cool small shops in the Village and Soho have been replaced by gentrified condos and expensive stores. But, it is still New York City and if you have never been there, it is still at the top of the list for places to visit. It has the best restaurants, world class galleries and museums, top entertainment and the best shopping!
The best part of New York is, hands down, the people. True New Yorkers are the most interesting and friendly characters you will find in the world (the ones that are not so friendly tend to be people that moved to NYC who erroneously think that’s the New York vibe they must portray). I lived there in 1986 and used to walk around and go to bars and restaurants by myself and found that locals were very sociable. The ones I met were direct and to the point, but were approachable and loved to chat. They didn’t waste time with small talk, instead focusing on interesting things to say. It’s an admirable trait.
Our last trip there was December, 2011, but hotels and restaurants are updated as of 2017.
Key Attractions
Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island
World Trade Center and 9/11 Memorial and Museum
Battery Park
Wall Street and a walk around the Financial District
Empire State Building
Trinity Church
Federal Hall
Museum of American Finance
City Hall
Grand Central Terminal
Rockefeller Center and Radio City Music Hall
Carnegie Hall
Greenwich Village
Soho
Times Square
Central Park
Tea at the Plaza
Upper West Side
Metropolitan Museum of Art
American Museum of Natural History
The Guggenheim Museum
Museum of Modern Art (MOMA)
Broadway Show
The Dakota – John Lennon and Yoko Ono residence
The High Line
Whitney Museum
Lower East Side Tenement Museum
See a TV show – they offer free tickets, but need to reserve in advance
Lady Liberty and Ellis Island are a must see, but go early to avoid long line ups for the ferry. You can take the Staten Island ferry to pass by the statue; it is cheaper, but you can’t get off on Ellis Island. So many came to find the American dream through this portal and lived in the tenements of the Lower East Side. It is the immigrants that truly have made America great!
Wall Street Stock Exchange
The hustle and bustle of the streets near Times Square and the ubiquitous yellow cabs. There is nothing like New Year’s Eve in Time Square! But you have to get there early in the day and stand around for over 12 hours – hopefully they have a lot of porta potties. They put up barriers all around the perimeter so you can’t get in later. I saw the ball drop at Times Square once in 1988, but back then (pre 9/11) you could still sneak through the barriers. We went to a restaurant that was within the perimeter and hung out.
The best way to get around is to take the subway. No point driving in Manhattan. It is usually gridlocked downtown. The NYC subway is one of the best in the world – it will take you long distances for a cheap fare.
The Dakota
Where to Stay?
Image by Mapio
We stayed at the Hilton Millennium in the financial district, right across from the World Trade Center, 9/11 Memorial and Museum, and One World Observatory. It is a good location close to the subways, but next time I think a hotel closer to Central Park would be more ideal. It really depends on what you want to do in NYC that determines where you stay. There is an abundance of good hotels. Getting something for a reasonable price is the challenge. This particular Hilton was a good price and it’s a nice hotel, but you need to determine if the location is right for you.
Our room had a good view of Ground Zero. September 11, 2001 is still shocking and hard to comprehend. I will never forget those images and the day the world watched it all happen on CNN. It still replays like a movie, but it really happened and we must never forget.
Where to Eat?
One of the highlights of the trip was Delmonico Restaurant. Opened in 1837, it is the oldest fine dining restaurant in the United States and it serves the only authentic Delmonico Steak in the country. In 1862, Charles Ranhofer was named Chef de Cuisine inventing many original dishes during his time. He is most noted for his innovative creations, Eggs Benedict, Baked Alaska, Lobster Newburg and Chicken a la Keene. These dishes remain on the menu today. The restaurant is also mentioned in several classic films as the “go to” place where elites would meet.
Even though I worked in fine dining for many years, I had no idea about Delmonico’s until this trip. Some may say it’s an expensive touristy restaurant and not really a “foodie” place, however, if you want a great steak and great service, it is absolutely worth trying. It is a nice change to have professional waiters that know their stuff and know what good service means, instead of Millennials that think they are doing you a favour by serving you (and are clueless about the menu and wines). Am I being nasty? I don’t think so. I’m sure I’m not the only one that has noticed this decline in customer service at some restaurants that charge a fortune. Well, at Delmonico’s you get great old world service and good food in a historic setting. We both thoroughly enjoyed it.
Surprisingly, we didn’t visit too many restaurants this time. NYC is one of the top spots in the world for fine dining, but the top restaurants keep changing. It is best to obtain the latest information from top food critic blogs just before going. Here are a few current restaurants that I recommend:
Mifune– Michelin star chef Hiroki Yoshitake just opened this mid town restaurant. $120 gets you a full tasting menu.
Sen Sakana – Chefs Mina Newman and Taku Nagai are in the kitchen serving a mashup of Japanese and Peruvian cuisines.
Public Kitchen– in lower Manhattan at the Public Hotel, serves dishes like a truffle pizza, rigatoni with basil-pistachio pesto, and smoked short rib with corn and potato salad.
Kraków Poland is a fantastic place to visit. I have been to Poland many times since the 1970’s, but only 3 times to Krakow. I’ve seen it during Communist times when everything was dull & grey, and visited more recently, long after the fall of that horrible totalitarian system. Krakow, dating back to the 7th century, has a lot of history. It used to be the capital of Poland and it is where the Kings are buried, including the last King of Poland, Stanisław Augustus Poniatowski.
The old town is on the UNESCO’s World Heritage List and is cited as one of Europe’s most beautiful cities, as well as one of the most unique destinations in the world. Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture includes the Wawel Cathedral and the Royal Castle, the St. Mary’s Basilica, Saints Peter and Paul Church and the largest medieval market square in Europe. Kraków is home to the Jagiellonian University, one of the oldest universities in the world, and traditionally Poland’s most reputable institution of higher learning. In 2000, Kraków was named the European Capital of Culture.
Krakow Old Town Square
For tourists, the great thing is that the 5 star hotels are inexpensive, the restaurants are outstanding, the bars have live music, and there are many attractions. You get the old world experience, but at a good price. Many restaurants and bars are in medieval buildings with old brick facades and curved ceilings. They are unique and ooze with atmosphere. It’s not as hectic as some of the key cities in Western Europe, and feels much less commercialized. In my opinion, Central European cities such as Prague, Warsaw, Krakow, Gdansk and Budapest are much more interesting than many Western European cities (cities in Italy being the exception – it’s hard to beat Italian charm and quality everything).
Famous Krakowians
Karol Wojtyła, Archbishop of Kraków, was elevated to the papacy as Pope John Paul II — the first Slavic pope ever, and the first non-Italian pope in 455 years.
Roman Polanski, Film Director, spent his childhood in Krakow.
Tadeusz Kantor was a Polish painter, assemblage artist, set designer and theatre director. Kantor is renowned for his revolutionary theatrical performances aka “happenings” in Krakow. During the Happenings, he directed the actors just like a conductor would an orchestra. The video below shows one of my favourite pieces “Dead Class”. It is the full original version, filmed by Andrzej Wajda, with English subtitles.
What to See?
Old Square (note: cars are not permitted in the Old Square area)
Wawel Castle – inside you will find the individual chapels belonging to Noble families, and the tombs of the Polish Kings.
Wawel Dragon, or Dragon’s Den is a famous dragon in Polish folklore. His lair was in a cave at the foot of Wawel Hill on the bank of the Vistula River.
We saw a great band called Don’t Ask Smingus. Don’t Ask Smingus is an Anglo-American-Polish Krakow-based five-piece rhythm and blues rock band. We bought his CD and still listen to it today.
Where to Stay?
We stayed at Hotel Stary, a 5-star hotel in the old town, with an amazing pool, roof top lounge, and salt room where you can sit and breathe in salt air. It provides the same therapeutic qualities as breathing in ocean air, which according to some studies, is beneficial for lung ailments.
The pool at Hotel Stary.
The pool at Hotel Stary. This has got to be the nicest pool I have ever swam in! It has a waterfall in one part of it that you can sit under.
The Salt room at Hotel Stary
You can lounge in the Salt Room and breathe in some good old salt air. Supposedly it helps with respiratory issues.
Pod Aniolami is a gem on Krakow’s culinary scene. Located in the gothic cellars of a 13th-century building it is brimming with old world atmosphere. And great food!
Hotel Stary, has two restaurants: Michelin rated Trzy Rybki and Restaurant Hotel Stary.
Cyrano de Bergerac, a French restaurant, ranks among the top restaurants in Krakow. Apparently, Roman Polanski and Prince Charles ate here.
This trip stemmed from my fasciation of the pioneers that traveled to California and their arduous journey to attain a better life. It was the early pioneers in the 1840’s that blazed the trail that others followed. They started out in the spring from the mid west and followed the rivers with their wagons, oxen, cows and possessions. Wagon trains typically consisted of about 100 people and were often led by men that crossed the trails before. The beginnings of the California (and Oregon) Trails were laid out by mountain men and fur traders from about 1811 to 1840 and were only passable initially on foot or on horseback. This was one of the most memorable trips I have ever had.
Photo taken at the Donner State Park Emigrant Trail Museum
The journey, for the Pioneers, was gruelling (quite a difference travelling by car for 6 hours than a month on the wagon train). They had to cross mountain after mountain, deserts, salt flats, lakes of alkaline, and landscapes that they could have never imagined. Nevada and Utah were littered with dead cattle and possessions that were abandoned in order to lighten the load on the wagon. Some did not survive the journey.
One small part of the Great Salt Lake
One of the most tragic tales was that of the Donner-Reed Party. Their goal was to reach Sutter’s Fort on the other side of the Sierra Nevada Mountains (near the current city of Sacramento) before winter. However, they were delayed by a series of mishaps and mistakes, and spent the winter of 1846–47 snowbound in the Sierra Nevada mountains. Over half of the party died of starvation. Their biggest mistake was that they took the Hastings Cut-off which took them through the rugged Wasatch Mountains, then south of the Great Salt Lake through the desert and through the brutal salt flats to the south of the Ruby Mountains. Then the trail went north again to re-join the more established trail in Northern Nevada. It added a month to their journey.
Why did they take it? They were told by Hastings that it would be faster. Why did he tell them it would be faster? Perhaps on horseback it may have been, or perhaps he lied out of self interest. Mountain men had an incentive to get people to follow their route because they would get a commission from the Trading Posts along the route to bring people to their door. It was a disaster for the Donner-Reed party.
I tried to follow part of their trail to see what they saw. Today, the I-80 from Salt Lake City to Reno Nevada takes you through a big chunk of the Nevada portion of the pioneer trail, and some of the Donner Party Utah trail. Utah and Nevada have a lot of mountains! In fact, Nevada is known as the most mountainous state in the U.S. I can’t imagine crossing that by oxen pulled wagon trains.
Outside of Salt Lake City, heading west, you encounter the salt flats. They race cars here today at Bonneville, but can you imagine what it must have been like crossing this by wagon! No water and minimal food for the animals at this point (they still grazed on some of the sage bush). And the humans were not faring much better.
Any water that they did find was alkaline and smelled of sulphur.
Gravely Ford is the spot where a fight broke out among the travellers resulting in a murder. The pioneers actually convened a court with a jury to settle the matter. Even though it was the “wild west” they still adhered to principles of law and order. The plaque below marks the spot of this event and the Indian massacre of a wagon train.
In the photo below, it looks like tracks from a wagon. Is it possible that it is from the pioneers?
Parts of Nevada look like another planet. Some of the mountain ranges are black so the mix of colors is quite splendid.
Closer to the Reno area, trees and green shrubs start to appear.
Then after all that they endured on the trail, the final arduous step was to climb the solid granite Sierra Nevada Mountains. What determination!
Photo taken at the Donner State Park Emigrant Trail Museum
Once they reached the top of the mountain, they camped briefly and later descended down the other side to the warmer and greener Sacramento area and the end goal: Sutter’s Fort.
However, due to the delays encountered in Utah and Nevada, the Donner Party arrived to the Sierra Nevada Mountains in late October and, adding to their misfortune, there was an early severe snowfall. The party became snow bound in the mountains, near what is now called “Donner Lake” and could not go further. The winter was one of harshest on record with over 25 feet of snow at the lake area. They could not retreat because that route was now closed off by snow.
The Donner Party ran out of food. They had no animal traps and relied on hunting for game, most of which had already retreated to lower elevations. They also tried unsuccessfully to fish in the ice-bound lake. They lacked the experience to make the best of the extreme winter conditions. There were accounts in the diaries of having to result to cannibalism, but no hard evidence to support it.
Donner LakeLocation of the Murphy cabin
The rock above was a wall and hearth in the Murphy cabin. Below is a rendering of what the cabin looked like. A fire would be lit to heat up the rock and keep the room warm.
Of the approximately 90 members of the Donner party, about 45 survived and made it to the Sacramento Valley and beyond. The Donner Party Memorial and Emigrant Trail museum is located at Donner Lake. I found the museum fascinating! It was a gruelling journey, but the determined pioneers gave it their all. Many made it to beautiful California; unfortunately some did not.
Side Journey to Virginia City
Southeast of Reno, up in one of the many Nevada Mountains, you will find Virginia City, a charming small “wild west” town. It was a boomtown in the 1860s and 1870s due to silver mining. It is also the birth place of the writer known as Mark Twain.
Virginia City retains an authentic historic character with board sidewalks, and numerous restored buildings dating to the 1860s and 1870s. There are many museums and shops worth visiting. It is also near the site of the fictitious Ponderosa Ranch on the Western television drama Bonanza. As such, the show’s characters made visits to the town regularly. However, the Virginia City depicted on Bonanza was located at RKO Studio in Hollywood.
St. Mary’s in the Mountains Catholic Church and the small one is St. Paul’s Episcopal Church
Among the attractions on C Street are the Bucket of Blood Saloon, the Delta Saloon with the Old Globe and Suicide table, the Silver Queen, the Brass Rail Saloon, and the Red Dog Saloon, originally the 1875 Comstock House, located at 76 North C Street. The Red Dog Saloon gave many San Francisco rock musicians their start during the summer of 1965. Piper’s Opera House occupies the corner of B and Union Streets and is open as a museum when not a host to shows and musical venues.
Visit Salt Lake City, Park City and surrounding region in Utah for unique landscapes, good shopping and great food. In a related blog, I show the California Pioneer Trail that passed through Utah and Nevada. The first thing I noticed about Salt Lake City is that it very quiet, but pleasant. It feels different. Not the typical noisy hustle and bustle of a city. The core population is under 200,000 but the greater area is about 1,150,000.
It is bordered by the very salty waters of the Great Salt Lake and the snow-capped peaks of the Wasatch Range. You are never far from nature. And Utah has some of the most unique and breathtaking vistas in all of the U.S.A.
Downtown’s 10-acre Temple Square, headquarters of the Mormon Church, is home to the majestic, 19th-century Salt Lake Temple and the neo-Gothic Assembly Hall. The acclaimed Mormon Tabernacle Choir performs in the square’s domed Tabernacle. The city’s street grid system is based on the temple constructed by the Church at its center.
The city was originally founded in 1847 by Brigham Young, and other followers of the Church, who were seeking to escape religious persecution in the mid-western United States. These Mormon pioneers at first encountered an arid, inhospitable valley that they then extensively irrigated and cultivated, thereby establishing the foundation to sustain the area’s large population of today. There are dry zones (for alcohol) in Utah, but hotels serve alcohol and you can easily find places to get a drink.
Salt Lake City’s modern economy is service-oriented. Today the city’s major sectors are government, trade, transportation, utilities, and professional and business services.
The Great Salt Lake
As the largest natural lake west of the Mississippi River and the largest salt water lake in the western hemisphere, the Great Salt Lake is perhaps the best known geologic feature in the area (it is much bigger than what you see in the photo above). Many people go swimming in the lake. Floating in the lake is a unique experience because the high salt content makes it easier to float. And it is very shallow. You can walk out quite far. I even tasted the water! It is indeed, extremely salty and fishy tasting (the lake is home to an abundant population of shrimp).
Many people go to Antelope Island State Park(seen in the distance of the photo above). It is home to free-ranging bison, mule deer, bighorn sheep, antelope, and many other desert animals. Millions of birds congregate along the shores surrounding the island, offering unparalleled opportunities for birding. John C. Fremont and Kit Carson made the first known Anglo exploration of Antelope Island in 1845. You can step back in time with a visit to the Historic Fielding Garr Ranch, or go on the hiking & biking trails. And you can camp overnight.
Festival of Colors
Salt Lake City has a thriving and vibrant festival culture. Various festivals happen throughout the year, celebrating the diversity of the communities in the Salt Lake Valley. From culture, food, religion and spirituality, to dance, music, spoken word, and film, almost any type of festival can be found. Many of the festivals have been ongoing for decades.
Lantern Festival
The city has a local music scene dominated by hip hop, blues, rock and roll, punk, deathcore, horrorcore and indie groups. There are also many clubs which offer musical venues.
In 2002, Salt Lake hosted the Olympic Winter Games. The Olympic spirit lives on at the Utah Olympic Park where you can skate on Olympic Ice, take a luge ride, or watch future Olympic athletes in training.
Where to Stay?
I stayed at the Grand America Hotel and I think it is the best place to stay by far. It is reasonably priced yet luxurious. They have exquisite Chandeliers, beautiful flowers, antiques and fascinating sculptures peppered throughout the common areas. It was like going back in time to a magical era. The staff is very friendly, but not in your face.
Where to Eat?
The hotel has excellent restaurants. The Garden cafe is nice if you want to sit outside. For farm to table food here is a list of recommendations:
The Sundance film school is just outside of Salt Lake City – it’s a great place for film makers to perfect their craft.
And of course, Park City, where the Sundance film festival is held every winter, is not to be missed. I was there in the summer and have never attended the festival, but it is a beautiful place to visit anytime. It is a small upscale resort town with great restaurants and shops. In the winter, skiing is the main activity. Main Street is lined with buildings built during a 19th-century silver mining boom.
The Bonneville Salt Flats is a densely packed salt pan in northwestern Utah. The area is a remnant of the Pleistocene Lake Bonneville and is the largest of many salt flats located west of the Great Salt Lake. The property is public land and is known for land speed records at the “Bonneville Speedway”. I drove by here and it truly is another planet. This is one area the California pioneers had to go through on their wagons – can you imagine what they went through traversing this. Wow!
Bonneville Salt Flats. Photo from Utah.com website.
There are many day trips from SLC to the national parks that are unlike anywhere on the planet. These areas are a photographer’s dream. The shapes and the colors are masterpieces waiting to be captured on media or canvas.
Moab is not too far from SLC and they also have skydiving excursions, hiking through the caves and general walking tours.
Further south, Bryce Canyon, Arches National Park and Zion National park are jaw droppers. There is nothing on the planet that looks like quite like this! Bryce Canyon has more Hoodoos (tall think spires of rock) than anywhere else. So far, I have just seen photos, but I can imagine how much more spectacular this is when you see it in person. A visit to these parks is definitely on the list. We would probably stay in St. George Utah and do day trips from there.
Enjoy your trip! Send your thoughts on Utah. Spammers please note, I will not approve your comments.
We stayed at the Orchard Hotel near Union square at 665 Bush st. It’s a medium sized family run hotel with quality rooms and very nice staff. The hotel is very clean, has free wifi and breakfast is included. There are many hotels in San Francisco and it was hard to choose one that had a good location, good price, quality food, high standards and nicely designed rooms that are not a closet. This had all of that. I found many that were over $500 USD per night (and on New Year’s Eve even that was cheap) but we wanted to spend less yet not sacrifice quality (we paid $300 USD). We will definitely stay here again!
I’m sure there’s more, but this is not a book on Rome, just a sample of an exciting place to visit. And it helps to know its history.
All operators are committed to a high standard of quality and all dishes prepared inside the Mercato are made using only the raw materials on sale inside. We had a few excellent pasta dishes. It is open from 10 am until midnight.
There are several cottages and B&Bs in the area if you decide to spend more time there.
The Folk Museum houses a variety of old buildings and dwellings which have been collected from various parts of Ireland and rebuilt in the grounds, brick by brick.
The Donner Party ran out of food. They had no animal traps and relied on hunting for game, most of which had already retreated to lower elevations. They also tried unsuccessfully to fish in the ice-bound lake. They lacked the experience to make the best of the extreme winter conditions. There were accounts in the diaries of having to result to cannibalism, but no hard evidence to support it.
